This sounds like a silly approach. So you want to negotiate a sales price, then when you agree to one, start negotiating again on the monthly payment? The monthly payment is based on the agreed upon sales price.
Putting a $10k down payment is also not advisable.
I think you need to read Leasing 101, because like @Jon said above, the monthly is based on the sales price. Sure, you’ll want to make sure they are using buy rate MF, but once you have a sales price locked in, there’s not really any other moving parts to get to the monthly payment, aside from applying MSDs to bring the interest rate down.
You could “move forward into monthly payment” at this point - use the calculator and plug in the necessary info to find out how much you’d be paying.
Well, for starters, it looks like this one is being sold to you at MSRP, the only discounts I see are rebates from the manufacturer. Honestly, I wouldn’t even negotiate with someone who insulted me with this kind of nonsense, but that’s me. For $1,100 a month with $5k DAS, I’ll be in an S550, not a 5 Series BMW.
There is a huge wealth of information on this forum, it took me about 3 hours to put the nuts and bolts together. I’ve always been an aggressive negotiator, now I know what goes into the sauce behind the doors. Is it worth 3 hours of reading to save $300-$400 a month over the next 36 months for you? My math shows it would be wise for an individual with that contract in front of them, making less than $9.98mm a year, to spend those 3 hours before continuing to negotiate.
Beyond the $0 dollar discount off of the MSRP, MF should be .00165, for starters.
@fh3985 and @skyakev as of right now its a horrible deal… 10k cap cost reduction not a good idea…do what @Azure said sell ur car pocket that cash… and negotiate ur sell price before incentive… never go into a dealer saying what u want your monthly to be. Just my opinion.