BMW M340i xdrive - help please?


Dealer is giving me a $689/mo payment. I can’t make it match in the calculator. When I told them I wanted to be more in the $500’s they told me to walk or to put money down. After being told to put down $4k just in taxes and fees, which doesn’t even make sense to me, I walked. However, I really only went in to finally test drive the car. I thought I kind of had a handle on prices for this car since brokers offer it for around 450-550, but maybe you could bring me back to earth? How good/bad/neutral is this deal here on Long Island?

You’re not getting in the $500s without qualifying for a lot more incentives.

With that said, that deal is horrible


At 4% dealer discount though? Is that ridiculous or am I out of touch? Dealer only offered loyalty/conquest. I only qualify for conquest.

You would need to qualify for significantly more incentives AND get a much much better dealer discount.

My suggestion is to stop talking to dealers and go back to doing more research. Start with Edmunds to find out what MF/RV/incentives actually are, then look into getting yourself an ol code. Once you have that all squared away, figure out what the car you want should cost based on those incentives that you qualify for. Then, shop at a dealer outside of NY so you can put down max MSDs.


Thanks. I’ll def use Edmunds. I may start branching to New Jersey and Connecticut. Might have some better luck.

Also, it’s important to understand the context of some of the deals brokers are posting if you’re going to be comparing them. What incentives are required, what MSRP vehicle, what lease terms, what tax rates, etc. Just because one broker has an m340 somewhere for $500 /mo doesn’t necessarily mean that’s a reasonable price for the car you’re looking at for your situation.

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I completely understand that. The brokers have that info and I understand without loyalty I’d be higher in the mark than if I did and without MSD etc. just felt $700/mo on this car with 4K upfront was excessive and then being told to walk without negotiation. Came here for the reality check.

$700/mo with $4k is excessive, that’s for sure.

You shouldn’t be talking to a dealer until you know exactly what the car should cost though first.

If you want a good deal, go outside of Long Island, and really that area of NY. I’m from NY. My whole family lives there. Dealers, for the most part, do not give good deals. It’s like SoCal. Why heavily discount when someone is going to walk in and say thank you for a “good deal” simply because the dealer said it was?!

Getting hackr deals require a lot of research and contacting different dealers in different states where they are willing to ship AND YOU ARE NOT A CAPTIVE AUDIENCE!

That deal they offered you was pure garbage. $&@! them. Def walk! :+1:t2:

Where did you get the $500 number?

Pulled it out of my ass.

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Do you not have a car right now? Conquest is $1,000. Loyalty is $2,000, so that’s one reason why you are seeing lower numbers. Also look at the MSRP. An M340i starts in the neighborhood of $56,000, but they can go over $70,000. The monthly will vary greatly between a base one, a mid-range one, and a very-loaded one.

Of course. I qualify for conquest but not loyalty. I understand numbers, I get it. But I’m not taking a 4% discount and placing $8k so I’m at $550/mo. Unless that’s a normal deal in which case I’m out of my league.

No, 4% isn’t a good discounts you’ll need to negotiate more

I disagree with the previous comments stating that you need to go far out of state to get a good deal. I recently leased an X5 from Bmw of bayside and thought it was a good deal (just over 11% discount) and Bmw of Freeport was aggressive as well. BMW of Manhattan also had an aggressive offer. Admittedly I signed mine at the end of last year when the deals may have been better. I also disagree that you need to go to NJ so you can do MSD. If you look at the details the NJ dealerships have much higher doc fees (like $700+ higher) compared to the NY dealers which are capped at $85. Taking that into account you don’t achieve anything by going farther away and paying more out of pocket + MSD to get to a lower monthly payment.

The main things you need to do are 1) visit a nearby dealership to do test drives and decide what car and features you want (sounds like you already have) and 2) engage with multiple dealerships in the surrounding area (say within a 2 hour drive) by email and phone and play them off of each other. You already have one offering 4% off, if the next one you contact offers 8% off you can take that to the first one and say you have it offered for 8% off can they beat that? If the 2nd one offers less than 4% off then tell them you already have it offered 4% off so how much better can they get? That’s essentially what I did. Once you have the build of the car that you want you can send that exact build to all of the dealerships around and find one already in stock that has the features you want. The way I found that worked the best is I had a list of “must have” features and a list of “must not have” features, and then everything else I was open to one way or another.

The key point is to engage with multiple dealerships over email and the phone and not spend any time in person with them until you’re ready to sign. This way you make it easy for yourself and also for the dealership to offer you a better deal - they’ll never offer you a deal they make zero or negative money on if it’s also going to take them a lot of time and effort but if you can make it easy for them you have a shot. Following this method my parents and my in-laws were also both able to do significantly better in their recent car purchases (totally different brands) compared to their recent vehicles as well.

You should also have a sense of what you would like to achieve in terms of percentage off (ie are you trying for 10% (should be easy) or 15% (probably very hard)) and what that calculates out to a monthly payment and if you’re comfortable with that. In my case I was aiming for a less than $700 / month payment with taxes and fees up front which on the build I wanted and with the incentives I qualified for meant I needed to get around 11% off MSRP. If my budget was only $600 month then that would have been unrealistic to achieve and I would have had to choose a different build or a different car altogether. So you need to have a sense of if what you want to achieve is doable in the first place as well.

Finally, you could also go with one of the brokers on here if you don’t feel like doing the leg work yourself. I found their deals to be generally pretty solid but I was ultimately able to achieve the same if not slightly better discount and save the broker fee myself, but I also spent many hours on this and ultimately it probably wasn’t the best use of time!

There are other options that aren’t NJ that are outside of NY.

The biggest killer on this deal is the discount off MSRP isn’t very good.

You’re totally right. I should have said “you don’t need to leave NY State to get a good deal”. I don’t know what the dealer fees in CT are like so possibly that would be the best of both worlds if they have low fees and also can do MSD.

I know the sales team at Bayside. Your post makes my point. A good deal to one person, may not necessarily be a good deal overall. For the most part, NY state deals, particularly on LI, are awful. I have leased a brand new 55k MSRP BMW coupé for under 500 inc tax with an out of state dealer. Took a lot of research and calling many dealers. But the dealers in NY basically laughed at this price because it’s really unheard of there.

Salesman at Rallye Westbury today told me no BMW has ever been sold for the numbers I mentioned. He didn’t even talk numbers with me. I never felt so out of place I just left. At least I got to test drive a 540 with a “genius”