How does this look?
Money Factor: 0.00182
Residual: 61%
Is that their standard markup on the mf? That would be my first question, second is how many miles on this fart car 
Walk out of this deal, it’s horrible. Paying 685 for a 50k selling price and 10K miles a year is absolutely insane. I got mine for 650 for 15k miles a year for a 55k selling price, drive off is 2.5k. I’m assuming zero down would be around 2k drive off?
Keep in mind he’s in Texas, or taxes in this case, on the full price.
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The car has 4690 miles. This is first pencil so I haven’t began negotiating, the MF just seemed high to me so I posted on her for some advice.
Ignoring taxes, it’s about 14.5% pre-incentive with a fully marked up MF. Isn’t a stellar deal.
BMW of Austin?
Yes, Bmw of Austin.
Would $500/mo be realistic for me to shoot for?
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Yeah, something doesn’t check out there. You have loyalty?
I do not have loyalty.
What do you get when you plug in the lease numbers from edmunds for rv/mf/incentives and assume a reasonable discount based on your research on prior m340i loaner threads on here?
Try and get tax credits, at least that’ll get you into the $5xx’s without too much pain on their end. Might be a little more discount there given it’s a loaner and they’re probably not selling much at the moment.
From the research I’ve done, they only have tax credits on the 6 and 7 series at the moment.
X5 as well.
Your rebates are all wrong.
If you at least have a car: any car you should be getting $2,000 incentives. Aim for $600-$615 first DAS or around $50,000 sale price before incentives.
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That’s a choice made by their sales manager, they can use them on any vehicle but they’re choosing not to. Play hard ball, they won’t have queues of people buying cars for the foreseeable future.
Got mine for 475 mo zero Das zero down… was a loaner.
You definitely posted your payment was 509/mo with 4 MSDs ($2,200). Sure, you’ll get the money back but don’t post claiming it was 0 DAS.
Plus, you’re in SoCal and OP is in Texas. Do not set unrealistic expectations.
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Dealer discount needs to be no less than $10k to make this worth even pursuing. The fact that this car is close to 5k miles means you need a fat discount to make up for the residual drop. If they’re not willing to discount up to $11-12k, you shouldn’t waste your time.
Wrong. Not how it works with BMW anyway besides one-pays.