BMW Incentive Stacks


You think I’m trolling?

You are applying an extreme example as a way to prove you point. Does it happen sure. Should people expect it nope. Price shipping is fine as long as you know the variables. At x% off from the dealer with these discounts I qualify for and the set residual my payment should y. Hold the mf constant search and find out what is a good number for x the rest is just math.

So what you’re saying is you should ignore the monthly payment and base your shopping off the actual variables that go into the deal…

That’s the exact opposite of only looking at the monthly payment and ignoring the variables that go into the lease.

What I am saying is that if you know a good deal is $500 a month 0 das, shopping for that payment is fine. I give zero fucks what the dealer does to get there.

Yah, but you can only know if $500/0 is a good deal because you knew the variables that went in to it. If the dealer gave a higher discount for a marked up MF, etc, doesn’t matter, because you knew ahead of time what the total cost should be based on all the variables.

The problem is with people going “well, $500 seems like it’s probably a good deal because someone told be once it should be 1% of the MSRP” or some other asinine reason like a broker in a different market with less incentives said the best he could do is $550, so $500 must be a good deal since it’s less money.

You can both be mostly right at the same time. What you’re arguing is not mutually exclusive.

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Literally the first thing I wrote. Hence I thought you were trolling.

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Knowing the variables that go into the lease and not knowing the variables that go into the lease are by definition mutually exclusive. This isn’t Shrodinger’s lease.

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This is true. You can’t base the quality of the deal off the monthly payment… unless you know certain factors.

I think what happened here is I was not descriptive enough in the OP. I’m not shopping by monthly payment based on no knowledge of a quality deal for the build I want and the numbers associated with that. I’m saying all things being equal (MSRP, Discount, Sale Price, Residual, MF, MSDs, Incentives, 0 CCR), I can tell that I can do better than $600/mo for that specific build, because it indicated the deal is weaker than is possible.

Means the dealer is either playing with MF, residual, discount, or incentives. Doesn’t matter which, just that they are saying they can’t meet my baseline deal, and I KNOW they can. And I can definitely use monthly payment as a gauge of how bad the deals are, between two dealers and two+ of the same (or very similar builds).

Absolutely. Once you have baselined what the lease should cost at your target price, it is very easy to quickly compare. Where I take pause in this debate (not specifically with anything you’re saying, but in the larger conversation) is with the large amount of people that come through here skipping that first part under the guise of baseless guesses as to what a good price is. It seems a week doesn’t go by without at least one thread of someone saying “why should I care about sales price or MF or rv if I’m happy with the monthly”, totally ignorant to the fact that without knowing what those values should be, there’s no way to know what a good monthly payment actually is.

Now, the other side of this debate is that from a negotiation standpoint, talking at all about monthly payment can be a great way to shut things down. Dealer fear of low monthly payments is a real thing. I have personally experienced a dealer saying no way to a monthly amount but agreeing to a deal when I’ve broken it down into the constituent parts and then being shocked when it was a lower monthly than they said no to. A dealer saying “no way you can get into an m340 for under $600” is a perfect set up for that kind of situation.

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Good point. And of course they would say that so I don’t know what I was thinking. It’s not in their best interest to advertise how low they can actually be negotiated down by working the numbers.

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Hello. I was about to order a car when I found out that I might be able to add OL rebate that is going to be in May in my area.
Q1. If I order end of March and get the car in mid May I can still apply rebate?
Q2. How long does it to get it after the event?
Q3. Can it be combined with College, loyalty, Lease credit ($2750)
Thank yoh

Technically, factory orders are exempt from OL codes so no, not combinable with anything because you can’t use it if the vehicle was marked sold with your name on it at any point of its journey to the dealership.

Factory orders are not exempt if you place the order after you attend the event.

Hello, I am in the market to finance a bmw m340 I can someone tell me if the $2500 finance allowance stacks with $1000 conquest and $2000 loyalty?

Conquest and loyalty don”t stack. If you are eligible for BMW finance cash, it stacks with either, but again, only one of conquest or loyalty can apply.

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Your allowance can stack with conquest OR loyalty. However, you are not going to get Conquest and Loyalty, just one of the two.

Hello all, I am new to this forum and a friend told me about Leasehackr. I am in the market to lease a new bmw 540 (open to other 5 series too). What is the best way to look for a good lease deal? I am based in NJ.

Most important step is to be solidly educated on what makes a good deal. Start with the leasing 101 section on the main leasehackr site(ignore that part about the 1% rule though) and be ready to spend some time reading and learning.

Do what @mllcb42 said. Make sure you know what you are leasing (get residual values, money factors, incentives, etc.) before you start talking to dealers. It requires a bit of reading to figure out, but look at other deals on the forum (use the search function) when you are done with the preliminary reading.