BMW Incentive Stacks

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So I went and test drove an M340i with two dealers today in Northern Virginia just to see which seems like a better option for negotiating when I’m ready.

One of the dealers told me Loyalty must be same household even if a co-applicant. Is that true?

Second he told me Loyalty / Conquest don’t stack with PPP. I hadn’t seen this before. My company is part of the PPP, and depending on the Loyalty availability per above (or Conquest since I’m coming off an Infiniti Q60) I was under the impression they were stackable.

They also told me good luck getting an M340i under $600/mo even with 7MSD or a 3500 CCR. That seems odd to me based on the deals I’m seeing here in the region and even worse areas like California.

Recommend you read up on countless bmw threads and also not shop by monthly payment

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@gcz
@Bostoncarconcierge

Does this stack with Grad incentive?

Can it extend to household members like loyalty incentive does?

Why wouldn’t I shop by monthly payment… that’s after all, what’s important to my budget with my commitment to 7 msd’s. Kind of the final indicator of the strength of the deal no?

California is one of the best regions for negotiating BMW leases.

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$500/month on a Hellcat? Great Deal!

$500/month on a Tacoma? You bought your salesman a new boat.

Same payment but one goes in the Trophy Garage and the other goes in the Worst Lease Deals thread.

Look at the numbers and value behind the payment, not just the final number.

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Not even remotely. Monthly is purely the byproduct of the deal. Without knowing the details, you have no way of knowing if you got a strong deal at all.

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Because the sales manager can make that monthly payment work for the deal while you leave potential thousands on the table.

You should know the RV, MF and incentives you’re qualified for. You then calc it out with a reasonable dealer discount to see if your payment is feasible. If yes, start making offers. If no, adjust your expectations or look at something else. It saves you and the dealer plenty of wasted time.

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Edit: Point made above ^^

Are you trying to pay $600/month for a $59K m340 or $69k m340?

Or are you just looking for an m340 badge and don’t care about anything else?

This is not necessarily true. If you know what a good deal is and what incentives you qualify for deal does it matter if the mf is marked up but made up for with a greater discount? If the brokers are advertising $600 a month 0 das plus taxes and op gets the car for $550 0 das but doesn’t know the sale price and mf why does it matter? I am all for newbies learning as much as they can but monthly payment is what ultimately matters.
I got a 68k ordered 2018 x5 from a broker (not on here) for $630 a month with only tax das. I didn’t know the sale price or mf till I saw the contract but I know I got a great deal before I signed the paperwork.

Because $500 0 das may have been a good deal and doable, based on a particular individual’s situation.

On my most recent lease, I paid about $3500 less than what a few brokers were quoting me. By your logic, I could have looked at the broker deal, signed for $1000 less and thought that was the best I could do.

Wait, hang on, I think someone is assuming I am not taking the backend numbers into account and blindly shopping for any m340i. I known exactly what MF, DAS, and discounts I’m looking for. With the built out car (or one very similar in inventory) I can calculate out a rough estimate based on those numbers (or with the help of the LH calc) to see that I can do better than the “you’re not getting better than $600 a month” they’re telling me. I’m not going to take a 6 years deal if I know I can push for an 8+.

At the end of the day with my “ideal” build and back end numbers I know what range is a decent monthly payment… it’s not impossible to work it back.

I’m not “shoppIng by monthly payment” for just any m340i with zero consideration for the backend numbers.

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This is exactly what I am trying to say (not well enough apparently). If you know the inputs the rest is just math and who cares how they get there.

I smell a troll. I got a similar deal on a 340 loaner, total unicorn doesn’t make other deal bad, just not the best one in the country for the year.
Disengage.

You think I’m trolling?

You are applying an extreme example as a way to prove you point. Does it happen sure. Should people expect it nope. Price shipping is fine as long as you know the variables. At x% off from the dealer with these discounts I qualify for and the set residual my payment should y. Hold the mf constant search and find out what is a good number for x the rest is just math.

So what you’re saying is you should ignore the monthly payment and base your shopping off the actual variables that go into the deal…

That’s the exact opposite of only looking at the monthly payment and ignoring the variables that go into the lease.

What I am saying is that if you know a good deal is $500 a month 0 das, shopping for that payment is fine. I give zero fucks what the dealer does to get there.

Yah, but you can only know if $500/0 is a good deal because you knew the variables that went in to it. If the dealer gave a higher discount for a marked up MF, etc, doesn’t matter, because you knew ahead of time what the total cost should be based on all the variables.

The problem is with people going “well, $500 seems like it’s probably a good deal because someone told be once it should be 1% of the MSRP” or some other asinine reason like a broker in a different market with less incentives said the best he could do is $550, so $500 must be a good deal since it’s less money.

You can both be mostly right at the same time. What you’re arguing is not mutually exclusive.

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