Do your research. Know what you want. Don’t be a jackass.
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@mllcb42 sending an offer makes my job super easy
@electric you mean you don’t say “BEST PRICE” over phone/email 3-4 times?!? How about “I DONT WANNA WASTE YOUR TIME OR MY TIME!”
@Staten1414 give zip code for taxes, give them a stock # if possible or at least a detailed description of exactly what you want, the lease structure you’d like, and ask about any info you can provide for potential current incentives/rebates
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The best price is the one both parties can agree to after each makes their case.
That’s the point. If I’m asking a dealer to make not a lot of money on a deal, I’m going to do everything I can to make them have to work as absolutely little as possible for it.
When I send an offer, I break it down in detail, itemize out the assumptions for fees I’m making with a note that I’m aware numbers may change slightly as a result of those fees, and conclude with "if you agree to these terms, I’ll be there in 2 hours to take delivery.
Make it painless.
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Immediately to the back burner or send me the best quote in writing and we will try to match it.
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This would be marked lost by me. You come off as a know-it-all. There’s a way to talk to dealers. Since everyone keeps asking how to talk to dealers, play stupid. They quoted you what would likely be an average / aggressive deal on that car for a non LH member. You can’t expect a dealer to drop their pants on the first pencil.
Dealers aren’t motivated to just go and senselessly lose money.
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This has worked well for me. I feel like paragraphs of text are almost always going to be ignored for the most part
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+1…I get the ball rolling short and sweet. Once we start chatting and talking numbers, things just fall into play, or you know it’s not going anywhere, and you try someone else.
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The problem is that most people who calculate their own lease numbers forget fees and/or use the wrong info and then are not willing to adjust their payment. This is not the case with you but the majority of people forget acquisition, doc fee, and do not tax the rebates. Some people calculate the residual based on the selling price and they fight me when I tell them it is based off MSRP (even though their way works in my favor). Then when it is time to correct their mistakes, they want the dealer to pay for it.
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But I do know. And I did my homework. Trying to make it easy. It’s right there. No games. Don’t like it, fine. Just say so and we’re done. FYI: Their offer when reverse engineered (to the extent that was possible) appeared to be worse than the advertised price of the car. Maybe a big FU to me and that’s fine too.
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Totally understandable, which is why I always am sure to list out everything, so at least there isn’t any confusion as to what is being left out.
In my experience, I’ve ran into fear of low payment issues with dealers when going straight to the monthly/DAS I want.
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No, you phrasing an email like that will be ignored. It’s annoying. That’s why I’m telling you that you’ll get farther if you play stupid.
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Find the worst set of terms compatible with the incentives you seek and run with that. Only need 10K? Shop for 15K.
Unfortunately, I’ve usually needed 15k, so I’ve been starting from a disadvantage.
I’ve had good luck with my “send a detailed offer” approach personally
42mos, and as of recently 24mos BMW leases can help.
I am sure you know how to calculate a lease. Just for anyone else who is new reading, make sure you understand all of the lease calculation if you are sending a breakdown. Too often people miss simple stuff like the acquisition fee or calculate the wrong residual.
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This happened to me quite a few times in Nor Cal. I just got a per month payment instead of a detailed breakdown even after requesting multiple times. This tells me right away that dealer is shady and I stayed the f** out.
Yet, for some reason, that’s exactly what far too many expect to happen here, and then the dealer is a scumbag/playing games/not motivated to sell/insert many other adjectives here.
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Take that “advertised price” with a grain of salt. It usually doesn’t include TTL/acq/doc, has all rebates that some won’t qualify for, or a combination of both. Personally, I never even bother with “ads.”
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Personally I have ran into this a few times myself in socal and it is mostly at the salesperson’s level not at dealership. I often get follow-up emails from the GM or other salemen after the initial inquiry who would give online quotes. I usually just reply to those emails asking for a quote for a specific vin with the terms and my zip. 99% of the time, I get a quote back and 98% of the time it is a shity one. Lol