Yes. College grad stacks. However, lease incentives ended today. Keep an eye out for June offers starting on 6/3/19
Agree. As enticing as the number were, I like the look of the 4 series + the engine
Which dealer is this and can you share the sales contract? I’m in the Bay area and looking for something similar.
If anyone in LA knows a dealer than can replicate this I’d be down to get one as a second car…
Come on mods, give this man a unicorn!
1 Like
wish I can bring it to NJ…
Which dealer is this? Thanks
Can you still do this? I’m in san diego
How common is it for dealers to have loaners they are leasing? Do you ask them specifically for a loaner? I feel like you wouldn’t get this deal on a car with sub 100 miles.
You can find them usually under demo’s, or company cars section of dealer you’re shopping.
At first I thought the MSD killed it, but then realizing the $0 DAS makes this a great deal. I got so much pushback from my local dealer when I mentioned this and similar 3 series/4 series deals. Ironically it isn’t about finding the deal, it’s about getting a dealership to accept it. Apparently nobody likes manufacturer rebates.
You can’t go in with the “I want this car for $310/mo w/ $0 Down” approach and expect any dealer to bite on it. You need to walk them into the deal. You really only need to ask dealers what their best discount on the car is up front. If they ask how you wish to pay for it (all cash, finance or lease), just say you haven’t decided yet and are trying to find the best discount before deciding.
Once you find a few dealers with a good discount, then you start talking about lease terms. Whether they like it or not (why wouldn’t they? It doesn’t take a hit on their profits), they have to honor manufacturer rebates. The real grinding is just getting the base money factor and a good discount
1 Like
I don’t talk monthly payment, just steps.
MF
Sale price
Incentives
Term
MSD
Sign
Drive.
I suppose I should add that MF is the first step because the deal is useless to me if i’m paying a marked up MF (Ask me how i know this…). Get the sales team to agree to buy rate first and this will give you a lot of insight into how easy it will be to work the deal.
1 Like
Thanks for the advice, however I failed my first round of lease negotiations… $38,000 2019 Dodge Challenger GT AWD loaded, etc. They wouldn’t take the $350/36months/12,000m offer, we got close though. Thats with $0 DAS. TIP: Edmunds.com gives price over time as well as number of days on lot. Found the amount the dealer paid and offered him just above auction price… and he still didn’t take! This car had been on lot 290 days. They wanted $420 but then factoring insurance and crappy residual value and that was it. Trying for WRX, then a Mustang GT Convertible. Mustangs are poor leases I know.
Are you actually going into the dealers to negotiate? You’ll save yourself lots of time and headache by emailing the sales managers. Not to mention you can spread the field a lot better. Email every dealer within reasonable driving distance with the car you want and see whose giving the best deal. Also, DON’T PAYMENT SHOP! Use the calculator on this site and figure out what discount you need to hit ur payment. Hunt for the discount and base MF that will give you that!
1 Like
Yeah, payment shopping is generally a bad idea…
a) You don’t know what’s going into that payment
b) Your average salesperson has an idea of what the average payment is. You show up or contact suggesting something that’s 50-75% of this and you’ll stall out before you even got a chance to go into first gear.
I never bring up payment target until i’m 100% certain what’s going into it and i’ve already gotten the CA/SA/Tower Man used to the idea that my payment is already lower than 99% of the public (and to that end, sometimes lower than employee leases…) Even then, Sell price prior to incentives is a better number to bring up when you’re sure that’s what will get you to the payment you want.
My reasoning is that 1. I need to test drive anyways and can’t easily do that on 6-7 different vehicles. Who knew the impreza would perform as poorly as it does (worse than a corolla). 2. I always get them to give employee pricing on the vehicle first. I also like to put on a waffling performance and then say “honestly guys, this is my lowest price on 36m/10 or 12k miles”. Last night I was offered a $380/m lease on a loaded Sport Impreza. Took me an hour but I got them down to 315 and still walked. That’s with $1000 DAS. If you can do that without going into the dealer, I would be amazed.
Leasehackr math has this car: https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/744516114/overview/ at $373/m 36m/10k yr. ---- Initially, I got them to 6.2 years “score”, with $1000 DAS after 3.5% under plus 2% VIP rate via charity website. That’s with 61% residual.
My payment of $315 is like getting 11.8% off MSRP and score of 7.2 years. This is on a car brand that typically doesn’t do all kinds of crazy deals, shady rebates, etc.
I’m assuming this is a good deal for the brand. Will try it out your way of emailing sales manager though. Typically, I hardly get a reply back unless it is for a car/color combo I don’t want.
what is an “OL code”? I asked this in another thread and didn’t get a straight answer. Googling just points back to leasehackr