That makes sense. I suppose I will use the deal they gave me to contact other BMW dealers in Chicago.
So I reached out to another dealer who said he’s selling at $41,200 with MSRP $48,490, and he sent me this worksheet. Is it me or the numbers still don’t add up? It’s at 1,720 miles and rebate is only $750 but I don’t think monthly payment plus fees up front should be $528.
Thought I was going going crazy reading this. Not that bad of a deal. Not great, but not bad. Kinda weak discount on a loaner, but it is low miles.
I think shooting for 14-15% is reasonable.
Selling price is 41,200 so 15% off MSRP 48,490. When I put it in Leasehackr I get 471 as monthly payment not 487 so confused at this discrepancy. I’m thinking of adding MSDs and college grad which should bring the monthly payment down by 55-60. Do y’all think I can push for a higher discount? I wanna keep the monthly as close to 400 as possible. Vehicle is 2020 with about 1750 miles.
Can you break down the $1225 in line 18?
That may be the discrepancy in your payment.
Mind mentioning which dealer you’re talking to? I’m in Chicago too and looking for an X3, every single dealer won’t go past 10% including incentives on a loaner and talk to me like I’m crazy when I mention 15% off, so frustrating! And yes I’m talking to a broker too but Illinois tax is apparently hard for out of state dealer’s to get right which ultimately kills any deal I’ve found.
Well, I know you moved on from this one, but the problem with your above calculation is that you put in the sale price they gave you WITH rebate and then subtracted the rebate a second time in the incentives field.
It’s not that bad. Just know what your exact tax rate is, and be sure that BMWFS fixes it on the back end after the lease is signed.
I’m in the Chicago area, got a car from TN and the guidance they got from BMWFS was that the tax was on the selling price of the car, not the lease price. Even showed me the paperwork from BMW. Spoke with BMW and they assured that after the vehicle was registered and the exact tax was calculated from the state that the difference would be refunded (or BMW would bill you if it was too short in your favor).
Anyways. I paid the full sales tax on a lease, two months later BMW applies the sales tax overage of around $2800 to the lease. So basically don’t have a payment for the next year. Either way it’s not the dealer trying to screw you for an out of state deal when it comes to the taxes, it’s the guidance they are getting from bmwfs, and they’ll have it right at the end of it all. Just need to know how your numbers work for where you are.
If a dealer isn’t willing to give a large discount then just move on and try another. Either they’ll come back to you and you can counter again or you were too far apart.
Also, just get on the phone. It’s not hard, it shows strong intent, and you can get the info you need fast. They deal with so many wankers over email every day that jumping on the phone just gets stuff done quick.
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I agree with that phone is far preferable to email in the beginning. Shows that you are serious since you gave them a real number.
Another tactic I have used is gone for test drives during work lunch. They ask me to come in for test drive but I have already driven the car. So I make an appointment to go test drive car at lunch which show the salesman I am a real person. They also appreciate coming in when they are dead midweek. I then leave without discussing numbers since I have to go back to work. Guarantee you that salesman is going to return your calls and emails. Especially if he works for a dealership that measures conversations from Ups/appointments to sales.
Every one of my deals have been seeing a strongly advertised discount on their site. Calling their sales department and asking to speak to a sales guy. I tell then the stock number, request of the price includes available inventors and explain that I’m out of state but I’ll fly in to pickup the car if we can make the numbers work.
Oddly enough sometimes they do say the price doesn’t include incentives and can make these numbers work right away. Tell them to send me a sheet and let’s move. Most of these hacker deals are closed within 45 minutes and two or three phone calls. Much easier than days and weeks of emailing back and forth.
Plus if you cold call them, and don’t really leave info like your name or email, you’ll find out real quick about the sale price before incentives and then won’t get harassed for weeks on end by filling out the contact info form on a website.
The last picture that was sent to me was via text. I’ve spoken to the dealer once on the phone and have been texting him rather than emailing him. Gonna go in tomorrow since I finish work early to get more clarification on the other cap costs, tax and to negotiate the MSRP off 15% -> 16-17%. Will update tomorrow, thanks for all the help so far.
Hvar you checked out Ziegler in Orland Park? They seem to have tons of loaners with some 330is being discounted ~19%.
11% is a little low on a loaner depending on the miles — 1K miles or less…it’s not good but not horrifying.
14-16% is generally a good target for a 3-4K mile car as it will greatly offset the RV drop. Keep in mind current market conditions as well and if you can, wait until end of quarter to possibly get a better deal.
That’s the dealer I’m talking to now about a demo X3, they’re at 8% off pre incentive and talk of 15% is just mind blowing to them apparently. I talked to them last month to about an X5 and same experience 
So apparently in their online pricing they include all incentives. Can’t say I’m totally shocked.
Based on some prior posts, I think Patrick in Schaumburg and Knauz in Lake Bluff were not afraid to go low in the past. A friend works at Laurel in Westmont, but they are Autonation, so…
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Joe, @BimmerDEALS at Orland will make a solid deal too.
Near me in Souith Fla I have never leased a BMW. Every 5 or so years I may check something out at the local BMW dealer and they are a complete joke, Ill mentin a specific car or program and they will play dumb. The last tiem I went there I said keep it simple sign and drive only. Still he came back with insane fees for closing the deal. I passed. I wont even bother again.
Good plan. Asking dealers for numbers in person is almost always a recipe for disaster.
I’m talking to Patrick and they will not go low. Their price is with all incentives
That sucks… I guess it’s too early for the “fire sale”.