I know this is not a good deal… I missed December deals now it’s January price gotten really bad.
Main reason I post here for ask hackers is about wear and tear protection plans. Seems not many people talk about it. Although I think I did my best on the MSRP I know it could get better to 12-14%. Now it’s 8.5% But at the end of signing. Financial office start selling me protection plans. Wear and tear. ( covers 5000. With windshield, tire, rim, scratch)
And brake paddle. Bmw now charge brake paddles. Sales told me they are around 600 each ( forgot the Exact price. sorry guys )
Total of these 2 plans are 2500. Rolled into monthly payment.
And at the end, my payment became 546.
Don’t know if the protection plans are worth it. This really depends on the the lesser’s luck with scratches on car and rim. But seems like all my hard working and researching become nonsense after I get the protection plans. Hope more people talk about the protections plans and cost. I feel of the brakes need to be changed within 30K miles it’s decent buy for the brakes. Please give opinions. It might be refundable if I change my mind.
This is already a so-so deal without the protection plan. The topic of protection plans has been discussed a lot on here, especially regarding that hard sell you just experienced from the finance person at the end of the leasing process.
You need to go back and have that taken off as you absolutely do not need it.
Your brake pads will be fine, chargeable scratches are inexpensive to have repaired at the end of the lease, windshield is usually covered by your insurance, wheel scrapes are not chargeable at lease-end anyway and tires (which you will for sure be replacing because they’re run-flats) are about $1,000 installed.
So 2,500 is ridiculous and makes your lease deal go from so-so to bad. Go back and have them take it off, then enjoy your new car and remember this for next time.
This is a horrible deal. You should be able to get 10% pre rebates and you’re using the old money factor which is now .00137.
You’re getting a <5% discount. For that price just pay a broker fee, you are getting hosed.
You should not need brake pads in 30k miles unless you drive very aggressive. I drove the piss out of my 3 series and put 40k on it without needing new pads.
If you already signed the deal and took delivery, and knew about this forum ahead of time you should’ve done your research before going to the dealer.
In December deal was better then I got busy and missed the good ones. I tried many dealers and also brokers. So far this is the best I found. And yes I spent 2 weeks reading hackers. Already signed have to stuck with the it now but will definitely ask refund of the protections. Thank you guys so much for the advices! Next lease will definitely start looking in November…
Fun fact. I was told to wait until Jan by a broker I found here. Otherwise I should be getting at least 10-12 on my own in December. Has trust of that broker and he just fleet. Should I post his info here so no one else get stoned ? Too many lessons for new year. Guess I just have to work harder for that 3000 dollars that I lost on the lease.
First of all you’ve got only 4.7% off MSRP prior rebates and incentives. You really need to spend a couple of hours reading forums and educating yourself on leasing.
It was discussed so many times here that any protection plans and addons are money makers for the dealer and you do not need them.
Anyways, enjoy the car and read this forum so next time you can hack your lease leasehackr style.
No offense but spending two weeks reading info on this forum does not make you an informed buyer. There is a ton of information on this forum, and it will take much longer than 2 weeks to become a leasehacker expert.
I know you already signed this deal, but why would you post numbers for such a terrible deal? If you wanted honest feedback, others like me have already provided that to you. As some have said, purchasing any protection plans, extended warranties and other dealer add-ons are mostly pure profit for the dealership. This topic has been discussed quite a few times.
Enjoy the car. Next time, do not rush into signing a deal. As far as claiming you were told by a broker to wait until January, all I can is that don’t burn any bridges.
I have browsed nearly every section of this forum and read hundreds of posts from newbs like you, trusted hackers, and brokers. I give props to all you brokers out here trying to earn a living. I couldn’t do your job. Some of your experiences, the ones I have read on this forum, are downright unbelievable.
I would never have bought this coverage in the past, but now I’m thinking that the windshield plan from BMW might be better than my State Farm Comprehensive due to all the sensors in modern windshields…
State Farm claims settlement was $1900. Dealer installed OEM is $2400.
I never thought I would ask this question. But dealing with a 3rd party windshield company makes me nervous.
Did 2 leased BMW windshields through State Farm who sent out Safelite. They came to my home with OEM BMW parts, installed perfectly, collected the $100 deductible and that was that. No complaints and no issues at lease turn in.
BTW- take a guess who the dealership uses to do your windshield.
In some states, Florida is one of them, if you have comprehensive coverage windshields are covered with no deductible✔️
On a new car, one can insist that OEM glass be used, and it has been my experience (fortunately not for my car, but from others who are family members) that insurance will oblige.
