Does anyone have an opinion on the validity of the expected acquisition cost/residual/MF data with subsequent lease payment reflected on the autoleasefinder.net site? It appears to be treasure trove of information in terms of comparing vehicles and trim lines with their equivalent lease payments. Not sure of specific regional incentives or the real-time data. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing!
It looks like they are using TrueCar for the sales price. Not sure where they are getting the MF or RV, but I checked the Hyundai Santa Fe Sport and Honda CR-V, and the numbers are in line with what I am seeing elsewhere.
Really good site, but some information is hard for me to understand. For instance, I got this for a 2018 Subaru Impreza Premium CVT:
$310(Full price)
$229
(assume 13.0% off)
$216
(& assume mf=0.00017)
$220
(& assume mf=0.000285)
$279 (5% off)
$247 (10% off)
$216 (15% off)
$185 (20% off)
$153 (25% off)
$122 (30% off)
Residual 56%
Money Factor 0.00057
1.368%
- Are these numbers based on what down payment?
- Are the different MFs related to different credit tiers?
- What is full price?
- How should these numbers be used when comparing a lease with a dealer?
Thanks!
For those of you utilizing this site for numbers, pay attention to the dates as well as the captives being used. Numbers do not appear to have been updated for August, at least with some of the cars that I’ve clicked on.
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Hey, just bumping my question. Would appreciate if someone could shed some light here…
- There’s a downpayment field you can add a DP to adjust the numbers
These are assumptions based on credit tiers, dealer markup, etc. Just example calculations
Walking into the dealer and paying MSRP
Nothing more than a guide and guesstimation. This is basically pulling truecar data and determining best case scenario based on truecar data. Use the residual/MF (and hope they are correct), as well as your own research to determine the offer price, then calculate it yourself.
IDK how they are scraping all of the captive numbers, but I’d still feel safer going to Edmunds to get the residual/MF. Call me skeptical, but the guys on Edmunds knowingly have the correct numbers. IDK who created this site, nor where they are getting their info from, which gives me doubt and pause. I can say, the few GMs and BMWs that I checked do have correct rv/mf numbers, so maybe it is legit. I’d still use Edmunds myself.