Then why should we care which dealer you claim to “deal” with?
Part of that is because there are more BMW dealers than Audi dealers (plus BMW sells more cars). Also, a quick search shows that there are a lot of Audi brokers with aggressive deals:
https://forum.leasehackr.com/search?q=audi%20category%3A7%20order%3Alatest
To get back on track, as someone else said, confirm with the broker that you can even do MSDs as a New York resident. I was told when I was looking over the summer (not Audi) that I could not but I was looking at Japanese cars mostly.
As for rolling in taxes etc. Yes the upfront fees are lost if the car is totaled or stolen the next day, although I think New York does refund the balance on your registration if you request it and do not get another car but I am not sure. As for the taxes, it depends on your state and insurance company. Call Geico (since you said that was your insurance) and ask them. You may have to speak to someone in their claims or salvage unit but it is worth the phone call. Also make sure GAP insurance is included with Audi, I assume it is but again as someone else said Toyota does not automatically include it and you have to negotiate it or pay extra. Not sure what happens to the MSDs since I never used them, I would get an explanation in writing on that
Because your statement that " a high volume store will do a discount like that" is incorrect. Depending on the location/car it can be completely opposite and sometimes stores that are in Bumblefuck are a lot more likely to discount than high volume stores.
60% of those deals are from California which are irrelevant for this conversation. The remaining are discounted at 10% MAX but then have another $1,000-$1,200 in additional dealer and government fees on top of that so even if I can get 8% discount from my store with $800 less in fees its technically the same deal if they can live without doing MSD’s.
Coming from the guy who it seems has never even worked in a dealership yet spends his free time moderating a lease hacker website. Please spare me with your “4 years of leasehacker experience” and coming out swinging all the time thinking your an expert.
Anybody in the business will tell you 10-12% on an Audi with no trunk money or non taxable incentives is a very strong discount , ESPECIALLY at this point in time. I don’t know what your even arguing about anymore 
While not currently in the market, I am seeing much better deals offered than over the summer (when I needed a car). Is it really still a seller’s market? Not asking specifically for Audi
Toyota/Lexus I assume?
I was also looking at Mazda, Honda and Nissan, and Volvo. Did not explore it too much as did not want to do that anyway but if I recall a few of the brokers on their spreadsheets have a note about NY and MSDs
The deals are finally starting to turn around for a lot of vehicles because production for a lot of stuff is ramping back up however everything still seems to be leasing out higher than what it was pre-covid.
Just for clarification for your future reference:
NY law seems to prevent NY based dealers from offering MSDs at all, no matter the brand. Toyota financial (so covering lexus and mazda now) has a policy that they will not allow an out of state dealer to accept MSDs from a NY state resident, regardless of where the dealer is located. Everyone else allows for NY residents to do MSDs, as long as the dealer is not a NY dealer.
I never said that nor did I make that general statement (which is why you didn’t directly quote me). I said that about one specific dealer/dealer group, where I have seen thousands of deals and still talk with sales people/managers who work there. I do stand by your statement that a dealer in the middle of nowhere can offer a great deal.
How is this irrelevant? OP is not getting their car from a NY dealer. Could be from anywhere in the country, although it is probably more local.
Lets break this down. Government fees go to the local government. So if you register your car in another state, those fees can and will change. And I assume you don’t work for free. So do you charge a brokers fee or does the dealer pay you a referral fee? If you charge a fee, then your deal is worse than you claim. And if the dealer pays you, then that is just eating into the discount which would be higher otherwise.
Allow me to comes to @max_g’s defense here. When have you worked for a dealer? You said you were a broker, so either you have no dealership experience or if you did work for one in the past, your critique of my past experience is the same for yours.
No one said it was a weak discount, just that is is not as crazy as you claim it to be.
Infiniti also doesn’t allow MSDs for NY residents, regardless of purchase location. I would assume Nissan is the same.
“I never said that nor did I make that general statement (which is why you didn’t directly quote me).”
I didn’t quote you because I got lazy but there ya go, I guess you have short term memory loss.
A dealership depending on state can charge whatever they want for Doc fees and Registration fees unless they are capped by the states government. So for example a New Jersey dealership can charge a $695 Doc Fee, $400 for Registration fees and then broker can charge a broker fee on top of that where as New York doc fees are capped. Doesn’t matter where your registering the car.
So if Broker A can give 8% off a $40,000 car with $300 in total fees versus Broker B that can give 10% off a $40,000 car with $1,300 in total fees, who’s giving the better deal?
I wasn’t doing a full on analysis of OP’s deal BUT I was running the numbers on my end and regardless of the inception fees getting paid upfront, for that deal to be possible it’s gotta be $2,500-$3,000 under invoice which IMO is very aggressive for Audi right now.
Your over here saying 10-12% is normal which it’s not. For even further clarification here is an Audi brokers spreadsheet with all the discounts listed! Notice how most of the cars are advertised between 7-9% and there’s very few listed 10-11%. Audi does not whore out their cars the same way BMW does.
Did I specifically say “I’m an auto broker” ? I don’t think I did. I made a statement about brokers never said I am one. Maybe I’m just a dealership Donkey that works with brokers? Point is that somebody who isn’t in the business and never was in the business shouldn’t be talking about what it and isn’t a strong discount. Unless your involved in the market day in and day out then probably shouldn’t make assumptions on what and what isn’t a strong discount.
All right everyone, it’s been good run while it’s lasted. Let’s close LH and all go home.
You caught me there and I was injecting my own experience. I will clarify that for volume models (A3, A4, Q3, Q5), 10-12% is within the range of possible and normal.
But those are not government fees, those are dealer and broker fees. Government fees, such as registration and title, are set value regardless of where you buy. So your example of $1000+ in dealer AND government fees doesn’t work.
You are cherry picking one broker and the volume cars are all listed at 10-11% off. It is unreasonable expect that discount on something like an RS 7 or RS 5 Sportback, but on a Q5 or A3 that is a normal discount.
I worked for a BMW dealer that didn’t whore out cars. I can only think of a handful of times something was ever sold for less than invoice and those had the rate marked up, which is night and day compared to the Audi dealer I worked for that whored out almost every car. So does that mean only Audi whores out cars? Of course not, each dealer is different and just because the dealer you work for/with doesn’t play ball doesn’t mean others won’t.
So which is it? Do you “deal” with them, such as a broker would, or do you work for them? Because if I heard correctly, you failed as a broker here and banned for not registering.
Then what is the point of this forum? If it was just dealers/brokers advertising, then it would not be leasehackr. I would further argue that someone who is a moderator for this forum is more qualified than most to inform other users of what is and is not a good deal. And I am in the business, so that should make me one of the most qualified to tell you what is a strong discount according to your logic.
But I also think we are getting off topic with the use of brokers and fees. Even without the use of a broker and outrageous dealer fees, 10-12% off for a normal Audi model is achievable.
Back to @leasebar. Figure out the money factor and residual value from Edmunds and then plug that into the calculator. Only way to evaluate this deal is to know the selling price before rebates. And you should be able to find a dealer in your region (I assume Northeast) that will be in the 10-12% off area.
Whoever told you that has it completely wrong actually but that’s actually funny if that’s what the word on the street is 
Just goes to show how credible your knowledge is.
Unfortunately, that’s what happens when you listen to everything you hear on an internet forum.
Sure, knock yourself out, but please, for the love of all that is dear, do not offer any opinions on whether discount is good or not. You know, “the new rules”.
