Audi Q5 2021 premium $386 monthly. NY. no money down. Is this a good deal?

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So I’ve been offered this by a broker. Is this a good deal? Anything else I should be asking the broker? I hope it doesn’t violate any policies by posting what I’ve been offered. Just wanted other’s take on this deal. Sounds like a great deal to me for $386 monthly. Still new to leasing so I just want to see what others think. thanks!

Audi Q5 2021 premium $386 monthly. no money down.
MSRP $45,570
36/7500, nyc taxes, 6 MSD’s
Monthly Payment: $386
Drive-Off: $3,868

  • First Month Payment: $386
  • Down Payment: $0
  • Upfront Fees: $1,919 (bank/doc/reg)
  • Upfront Taxes: $1,564
    MSD Payment (Refundable): $2,400
    Broker fee $399
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Just off the top of my head, for what I have noticed for Audi, seems fine. Much better than At least one broker deal I see in the marketplace.

If you really really must have it. Just from a financial standpoint, I’d have a very hard time justifying 77 cents per mile for a generic 4-cyl CUV, personally.

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That’s more expensive than the i8 lease I saw on lease trader.

I mean for that one you’d need to use all 25k allocated miles but still.

Your effective monthly is 499 once you factor in almost 4 grands in upfront monies. And that’s before MSDs and broker fee. Don’t get hang up on a monthly payment alone. Your deal looks decent, 10% off pre-incentive if they are giving you buy rate. If you like the car, sign. Here’s your calculator, if you want to play with it. It doesn’t take into account broker fee though.


Yeah we just don’t drive much during the week. We’d be using the car for weekend trips mostly and running errands around the neighborhood. I am going by the mileage used on our current 13 year old car, and we used less than 7500 for each of the past two years.

What’s the pricing on a P+?

He isn’t commenting on the miles necessarily. There are plenty of people with 7500/yr leases. But when you break it down on a per mile basis, it seems pricey for the type of vehicle. That’s all. If I drove so little, I’d probably not be looking at leasing a new Audi. But it is your money.

Thanks for your feedback and the calculator link.

What is the best practice for the upfront monies? Is it better to roll in the ~ $4000 into the monthly payment? Or just part of it?

I guess % off pre-incentive is what I should use to gauge if I am getting a good deal or not. Is it possible for me to get a deal like this on my own, without going through a broker?

I guess I would need to email all the dealers around my area to see if they are willing to offer a similar/better offer.

I do agree that the broker is adding value by making the transaction easier, so I wouldn’t mind paying for their service. But if I can get a better deal on my own, then it would obviously be the best way for me to purchase the car.

Yeah we just don’t drive much during the week. We’d be using the car for weekend trips mostly and running errands around the neighborhood. I am going by the mileage used on our current 13 year old car, and we used less than 7500 for each of the past two years.

We are considering nearly base models of Volvo XC60, Lexus RX 350, and Audi Q5. Do you happen to know which would have the best discounts for leasing 36/7500 ?

Hmm ok. We’ll be driving about 7000 miles per year. I updated my comment above to clarify.

If not an Audi lease, what other car lease do you recommend?

It would depend on the package, but it was around $450 monthly

xc60 is a better deal. I don’t know what you qualify for or where you are. Search the marketplace in your region for volvo.


General consensus here is to roll as much money into payment as possible due to the fact that in case of totaling your car shortly after assumption, you lose those drive-offs. Really depends on your personal risk tolerance, as chances for this to happen are small.

Read up in leasing 101 on how to dissect deals and negotiate like a pro:

You could probably get better deal on your own, but it will certainly require much more grinding compared to just taking broker’s deal. Essentially up to you, if you’re ok with doing that.

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What do you mean by “qualify for”? I don’t own a Volvo right now, so probably no loyalty. Not a recent college grad, not a veteran. We do have costco membership.

Ok thanks. I’ll look on the marketplace for Volvo for New York.

yes, costco works for new volvos, not loaners. No loyalty will change some brokers’ numbers. It seems most include it in their numbers, so you’ll want to check on that.

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Oh I thought you’d lose money only on the down payment (if the car gets totaled), not the Drive-Offs. Good to know. We’ll look to rolling those into the payments from now on.

Thanks I’ll read up on this. I did go through a few of these already, but it looks like I need to read and watch them again. :slight_smile:

Ok, NY. I missed that tag. I’m not playing favorites, but pulled up a well-known broker’s deal. If I set the terms similar to your Audi deal, it is $60/mo less. I would suggest, however, putting less down on the car and more down in MSDs for the volvo.

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It looks like when I reply to a post, it shows up as a thread on the original poster’s post AND it shows up at the bottom as the latest post. This is confusing to me… :thinking:

ok good to know. Would you mind sharing which broker this is? thanks!
I’ll check out the Volvo broker too. We’ll be test driving a Volvo XC 60 this weekend.

the broker’s thread is linked at the bottom of my last post