How is $329 a “buy now” deal?
You do realize that price isn’t real right? The MSRP is also 4k less…
4k less car, 3k required down to get here on a 39 month lease… requires conquest… doesn’t include tax, tags or fees…
So we’re talking about a what? 9k difference here? so $270 per month?
Should I go on?
Ok, I will spot you 1.5k for the extra MSRP and 3k for the down. So 4.5k divide by 36 125 + 189 = 314 is still less than 329 right?
So why would I fly to detroit to get what I can get by the dozens in MA? I am not saying yours is not competitive it’s just not a screaming deal.
Sorry buddy. You can’t just add the MSRP difference to the payment. The MSRP difference is residualized…
If a car is 4k more, I don’t make 4k more in payments over the lease, only the depreciation on that 4k, right?
I don’t think you know what that means.
So you’re telling me a 32k wrangler leases for the same price a 36 unit does?
You’re not adding in the total lease difference.
It’s not the 4k I posted but it’s not your end either.
You also didn’t add the conquest they require either, nor the tax… or fees, or anything else.
If the residual on a vehicle is 75%. Then if the MSRP is 4k more, you only pay 1k more for the lease (ie only depreciation on the MSRP). And the Wranglers have high RV, so …
That’s a common tactic used by car dealers to bait and switch. Say oh this payment is for this MSRP but this MUCH higher payment is for the leather 
So you don’t know the numbers, yet you’re telling me I’m being factious…?
Let’s break this down into real numbers
71xx total lease + $2999 trade or down payment + $1000 conquest + $1500 or so for tax and registration and their doc fee of $389 = $12,988
$360 on 36 month of payments. vs 36 @ $329 on more car.
Is the lease value difference 4k? No. I’d bet its around $1500 and I’ll check it with the factors when I get back into my office.
So spitball math is $1000 cheaper lease, with no rebates, on a sign and drive for a nicer wrangler.
Can you do that locally? I bet you can. However, like the title says - Metro Detroit.
Might look at either one or two. Replacing the wife’s SRX with 6 months left… and my genesis a year and a half left but should be little to no negative equity.
Looking for something real nice to replace both. Maybe A GC and a Ram?
^ isn’t the SRX over miles (If I remember correctly?)
What’s the total left on SRX, for payments?
Willing to deal cross country? SF Bay Area zipcode 94544
How about a mildly optioned Durango Citadel (V6) or a GT (V6)?
36/15k
I qualify for affiliate pricing from work (can provide the code when needed)
I’m currently leasing a Charger Scat Pack and an Equinox (giving back in May)
Tier I credit
I agree with you - point taken. If your deal is true zero at drive off AND you will also give an extra $1000 conquest rebate then, yours is definitely $20-30 cheaper.
Cross country would take too long to put together.
If they got it together today - the paperwork wouldn’t get there and back in time.
I might have a store near you willing to do something though.
PM me with your thoughts.
Over by about 2500 miles. Total left is about $6500 in payments. Might do better selling it rather than lease turn in. If I get another Cadillac they will wave 4 months.
It might just make more sense to park that one and get into a third vehicle.
The mile overage and/or trade value is going to sting either way.
Yeah… But insurance in Michigan is expensive too. Gonna hit me for another $100 a month in insurance plus the payment for a 3rd. Honestly we aren’t driving the SRX much, so about 5-600 Miles a month is not
going to kill me.
Ideally I will want to get into a QX60. It seems though that the Infiniti dealers around don’t like to offer big discounts. I am still debating on my Genesis. I like the car, and the payment is good. Sometimes I want to get back into a truck, sometimes I like the comfort and speed of a car.
All of the Infiniti dealers are Suburban owned - they have a profit margin they stick to.
That is why I don’t like them. I don’t like Suburban at all. 