This dealer was pretty persisten on getting me to sign that day, but I managed to say no and they saved the deal for me and I was wondering if you guys could help me see if this is a good deal.
These are rough numbers of the top of my head they wouldnt let me take any numbers home
MSRP: 42015
Selling price: 36915
Miles: 4,8xx
Rebates: $4000 ($3000 lease incentive + $1000 college grad)
MF: .00152 (i think, atleast they said that what it could be)
36 Months/10,000 miles per year
Monthly Payment $318
Now I offered if I could pay for the lease upfront. They said they had tax incentives for full lease payments only, so they gave me a full price of $13,500. (If I divide that by 36 thats an effective payment of $375/month)
Now this car doesnt have the premium package or NAV, only the sports seats and thats it.
What do you guys think? Good or should I pass on it?
I assume the drive-off is pretty high since the one-pay effective monthly is $375. Even without that number, this isn’t a good deal. You need to be getting at least 20% off this loaner for it to be a good deal.
Yeah damn well this is my first attempts with this “lease hacking” stuff. Idk how I can shoot for more they were pretty adamant that is the most they could do. Hmmm any tips?
The best tip is to not go into the dealership. View the inventory for all the dealers around and negotiate via e-mail. It will save you a ton of time and most likely get you a better deal.
Every dealer will swear up and down that you are bankrupting them with the amazing deal they are giving you.
So are you upfront with them? Like “hey can you give me a lease quote with $0 down besides tax tile and tags, with a MF .00152” ? Or do you first see where theyre at just asking for a regular lease quote?
The active members here post exactly how we got our numbers and what it took. You have to feel out your own method.
I can say unequivocally that going to the dealer without a negotiated deal from them on paper is a recipe for leaving money on the table. Know all aspects of the deal and how to move the numbers to achieve your end goal. When you see something good, you jump on it.
I usually submit an inquire on the dealer’s website. They e-mail back and I ask for a quote on the car. Usually they e-mail something ridiculously pricey. I reply asking what discount they are using and the MF and RV. Once I receive that I then reply back with “I did my research blah blah… can you do deal with…” I spell out all the terms… MSRP… discount… cap cost… MF … RV… tax. I pick a discount that is aggressive and see what they say. This works best with numerous dealers.
@JamesBond Okay I see, so its first just to get their attention then you try and mention your researched values.
@28firefighter I’ve tried looking at some posts and I tried going with the aggresive first email such as "i was wondering if you can do X inentives, X discount, X monthly payments. But that’s failed pretty badly in my experience. So I was just asking a little more.
I haven’t really test driven one, but I have seen some members here get under $300/month deals for a Q50 hmm im just not sure if the driving feel is similar
It may even be better. New BMWs do not drive like they used to (I own a e46, used to own an e90).
I recently test-drove a Q50 and was very pleasantly surprised. If you go for one of the 6-cylinder models, you are getting a sportier car with more features for the money than this BMW.
My only concern/complaint about any Infiniti is that their infotainment system is not great-- but I would put up with it gladly over a new 3-series (outside of a manual M-series anything).
My best results have been cold calling a sales person. They are usually pretty thrown off at how easy it might be to make a sale.
Call up their dealership, ask to speak to a sales person about a car on their website. Tell them the stock number. Ask if the online price includes rebates or not. Then ask what fees and stuff they add on, or if it’s included in the price. Then explain that I am out of state, I’ll fly in to get the right deal, and if they could put together a lease quote for me for 36 months. On and off the phone in under 5 minutes, then can go back to email or a quick call back and forth. It shows the sales person that you are serious about a car, and they are more willing to put the work in. Think of how many random people they get a day emailing them.
The deal I finalized was done in 45 minutes from cold calling, to requested buy rate MF, to putting down a deposit. 3 five minute phone calls.
