To find CV/MF , lease incentives etc, you go to ( see link below) and find the specific forum for a car you’re interested in. There you’ll ask in the forum what the numbers are for your region so you must mention your zip code so they can answer accurately. Use below link and towards the lower right you search make model, year to get to the desired model you are interested in.
You’re correct, no kids that I know of lol.
Because the incentives are there regardless of if you roll equity or not.
If you get a car that normally costs $200/mo and then roll in negative equity that brings it up to $400/mo, you’re paying twice what the vehicle is worth.
The big advantage with something like the fusion here with huge incentives is that the ltv of the lease may allow you to bury a lot of negative equity in it and still have the loan funded. If it has a low mf and you’re currently sitting in a high interest loan, this can stop the bleeding, but it doesn’t make the negative equity go away. Keep in mind that any equity you roll in gets taxed again, so you’re instantly taking a financial hit.
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There are $200 civic leases avail in FL right now, just check marketplace.
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Every penny gets taxed. Every penny that’s already been taxed on the first purchase gets taxed on the new lease. The incentives have no effect on that.
The only thing the incentives do for you here is make room in the new loan for the bank to approve it.
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Why would you file a claim when the cash cost of the repair is almost the same as your deductible?
So for example, if I’m paying $10,000 depriciation including all fees over 36 mos and rebates covered the NE difference. Even though incentives were there already so I do see that it could be lower than 10k and see that could be called still paying the negative equity it’s still paying tax on the $10,000 right?
Also, I’ve seen some dealers get more aggressive with discounts/rebates when I factor in the trade to try to make it work vs not mentioning it and saying the incentives are included when they’re not…
As I’m still new to leasing, not trying to be redundant, just making sure I’m not missing something in the math.
In a nutshell, it sounds like you’re saying regardless, I’m paying the NE, just some incentives are available to lower it down to a prenegotiated cap cost or below (burying) vs adding the NE on top of the prenegotiated cap cost. Is this correct?
In hopes it would get me a better trade by keeping the Carfax clean
Look at it this way. Let’s say that the car you’re looking at, if you didn’t have the trade, had $10k in depreciation after all the incentivrs, etc. You’d pay for that, plus fees, plus rent charge, plus taxes. That’s what the car costs.
Come along with your $5k in negative equity and you’re adding it right on top of the cost. Now you’re paying for $15k in depreciation plus fees plus the rent charge in the now higher amount and taxes on the now higher amount.
Every penny of negative equity gets hit with rent charge and taxes.
If it’s trade equity, you’ve already had the pleasure of paying taxes on it from the initial cost. Hence then double taxation… Once when you bought the Mazda and again on the new lease.
Look at it this way… When you roll in the negative equity what you’re essentially doing is leasing the new car and taking out a loan for the amount of the negative equity and combing the payments together.
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So what then is “burying”? With this explanation it sounds like a myth. Unless the CV is higher than the negotiated selling price includng NE.
Banks will only approve a lease amount so high relative to the value of the car. If you went to lease something with minimal incentives, the lease value wouldn’t be that much lower than the msrp of the vehicle. If you try to roll a bunch of negative equity into a lease like that, the lease value would end up a good bit higher than the value of the new vehicle and the bank would deny the deal. You wouldn’t be able to trade the old vehicle in on the new vehicle without paying a bunch out of pocket.
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Ah I see. Thanks for clearing this up for me.
So now I understand more @chrishs2000 strategy of getting a lease value higher than that of the new vehicle using incentives, because that difference would truly wash the NE if I flipped it immediately.
Instead, getting into a high-incentive lease, would be a creative way to refinance, (only washed at amortiazation period) at much lower APR, while also getting a new vehicle & leveraging savings on fixing/maintenance the Mazda with shorter amortization than a refinance loan.
$0 down refinance would keep me the car and save longterm from current APR payments, but I’m still responsible for out-of-pocket damage & maintenance which may or may not be comparable to longterm savings compared to a high-incentive lease refinance option.
This is my deduction of all current options, if I’m understanding correctly.
Ford Fusion that is all
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Haha working on it. How long did your dad have the Ram before Vroom picked it up? Was it an immediate flip?
He had it a year and a half and almost ran out of mileage. I kept checking vroom for the break even and he was crushing the milage. But with limited used cars and the offers from vroom and carvana people are getting you could potentially move it quicker. I guarantee a lease transfer.
I totally get what @chrishs2000 is saying by going with a vehicle that holds its value. Those vehicles never have any incentives that would wash the negative.
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Seems like you may have it backwards? Going through insurance at a shop that’s part of the reporting network is the likeliest way for your damage to be reported
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I think you both are trying to say the same thing.
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Seems like the most financially responsible option would be refinancing the Mazda and start saving for the tires, repairs, etc. While getting into a lease to flip sounds fun bringing $4k in negative equity into the deal will make that harder to do. A new lease comes with fees and taxes that will likely eclipse the needed funds to repair your current vehicle. APR and insurance to some extent are based on credit. Are you sure you would qualify for the lowest possible money factor? I’d be asking myself how much total, not how much a month in this situation. If the Mazda is still reliable and safe, I’d stick with it and come up with a plan to put some money away. Last thing you want to have happen is not being able to cover the deductible on a leased vehicle. Good luck in whatever you decide.
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Melina, I think everyone covered the other questions except for this.
It costs nothing ($0) to refinance your existing CX5 with any bank or credit union. It’s not like a mortgage where there are thousands of dollars in up front fees. Nor is it like a lease, where you are going to pay an acquisition fee + doc fee + tax on cap cost reduction.
You seem very intelligent and open to suggestions. Do some math and let us know what you end up doing 
There are definitely ways to “hide” the negative in a lease but it’s going to cost a lot of money. So I would either refi the CX5 or roll the negative into a great lease deal that you can swap out to someone else and then start fresh.
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