About to finance fully-loaded 2023 EQS 580. 3.5k miles. MSRP 146k; I got them down to 115k. Any reason I shouldn't buy?

@Damin , the reason these EQS often target a 7,500 per annum lease is because the vehicle MSRP is so flippin’ high, and getting smashed 1% of the resid for 2,000 or 2,500 more miles each year gets out of control.

Outside of Maybachs and G-Class, MB is $0.25 per mile over on the contract. And they will often let you buy miles for a lower rate during the lease. So you’re better off originating a 7,500 per annum lease and managing miles later, than trying to bake the miles up front in the lease structure. Edit: If you were going to drive like 20,000 miles a year I guess you may want to re-think what I’ve posted above. But then you probably aren’t leasing a car… and round and round we go heh.

Obviously if a car is cheaper, it does make more sense to get the miles correct up front.


It’s not the same car but it’s the same dealership.

This dealership does offer 19-23% discounts on these cars. I’ve been offered one myself at 23% off with base rate. They have a million loaners, not sure why the hell they put so many on circulation.

It’s the same dealership as this one:

The salesperson just noticed that the buyer is completely inexperienced and jacked his MF to the tits.

The deal is real.

OP: do you give a isht about the monthly payment? Are you doing this because you need to hit a specific number?

I know of someone that they offered that to, he agreed to, they pulled the car to pdi it, then reneged on the deal. I’m going to go out on a limb and guess they hit their EQ sales goals for the month which came with a huge bonus if they hit all their metrics, so didn’t need to push any more.

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Damn. That’s cold.

I’ll say this much: the SA I was working me sucked big time. He was the reason I lost the car. Sloth slow and horrible attitude. He talked as if he were doing me a favor.

Good to know.

Just trying to get the best deal I can. Why?

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That is a good deal for that car, even if it is marked up. Try getting them to give you the buy rate. But even if they don’t budge, it’s a good deal.

The big question here is if you need a 147k or so car (580) when you can get a similar one with fewer horsepower for a substantially lower monthly payment. A 450+, por example.

Only you can answer that.

In your shoes, I’d probably go for a cheaper 580 or a 450+ to decrease the monthly. But I don’t know if you are the son of Rockefeller or just a person that doesn’t mind spending whatever the calculator throws at him as long as it’s (1) a good deal with respect to market price and (2) this car model with this much horsepower/features.

Like I said, this is a good deal for a 580. You could improve it by asking for a higher discount (buy rate).

But you need to watch the leashackr calculator video and learn about leases in order to negotiate with them. The dealership is pushing you around because they know you are asking people to feed you info and don’t know how to calculate on the fly. They do this all day.

Cheers and good luck!

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Honestly OP, do you really need a $1500/month car? If you really want this 580, then its an alright deal, but I think you’ll find out the car isn’t really worth that. I would look into other alternatives and read up on leasing in general. Then look into other cars too because you might find something better and cheaper. For any lease, just make a target deal and quote the monthly to the dealership with the terms. It’s their headache as to how to get there. Keep moving on till one gets you to your target payment.

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Do you think an EQS 580 is worth $1500/month?




Everyone’s in danger

Antoine Dodson Hide Yo Kids GIF by Amanda


@Damin just go back to the original dealer and say “can you reduce the money factor to buy rate and send me an updated deal sheet?”

The money factor is the interest rate (multiply by 2400 to get the actual apr). Dealers are allowed to mark it up from the base rate that MB financial services charges, and pocket the difference. 99% if the time we recommend never paying more than the buy rate.


You know what’s weird… is that @IAC_Scott was telling me that dealers don’t do the MF markup very often. He said that MBFS or BMWFS sets the MF based on the vehicle and underwriting. He said the same applies for the resid… where sales people rarely game the resid during negotiations.

Personally I don’t think any EV is worth $1,500 a month… but I’m not you hah.


Thank you I was looking for this post. OP wants to lose 45k in one year and never afford another Mercedes for the next 10 years due to negative equity situation!


Dealer cannot modify residual. That is set by the lender. Money Factor can be, and many times will be marked up by the dealer because they get to keep that mark up as additional profit. That’s why sometimes the discount is large, but MF is marked up. That’s where the dealer is making money on the deal. That and dealer adds.


The best play for the OP is to calculate a target deal himself based on the base MF and whatever discount, then tell the dealer he’ll be in to sign today if they can get to $X payment with $Y DAS.

Getting into the weeds with the sales rep about the MF is just needless back and forth and overcomplicates things, especially for a newbie leaser.

If the dealer wants to mark up the MF to the moon I really don’t care as long as they offer an appropriate discount to offset. Let the dealer decide how they want to make their money.


I think I did that for him.


I’ve had dealers sandbag the resid during negotiations just as much as they jack up the MF. They’ll just mess with the lease structure (usually by adding aftermarkets and other BS) to force back the same monthy and DAS as their whacky negotiation sheet showed.

Anyway buy from brokers and honest sales people. Makes life easier I guess

You are absolutely right. I don’t get the obsession with MF that is not marked up. I couldn’t care less as long as the resulting payment is the same.

When I bought my iX, they marked up the MF to .00191 from .00111. It had a million insurances and services tacked on.

My response: lower the MF to buy rate. They refused. So I countered with IDGAF what the MF is, you have to make up the difference in payment with additional discount. So instead of 10% off pre-incentive, you have to do 13.5% off pre-incentive. And guess what, it worked.

More than one way to skin a cat.

As long as they honor the deal, I really don’t mind whether they try to add bs fees.

I just ask them to fix and review. Many of us have gotten to the stage where we can work around the deal and understand when something is off.

What does piss me off is when they try to tell me I’m calculating something wrongly or don’t want to give me the inputs they are using. And they refuse to review with me. The numbers have to match!