Were one to SEARCH (sort by recent), there have been A LOT of
lease with immediate buyout posts
Lexus / Toyota lease to buy cheapskates (them the SALTIEST pretzels who will contort themselves into impossible shapes to get $1 of EV tax credit on an MSRP inflated product)
RX350h / Rx450h (+)
NJ EV and PHEV leases and tax treatment (adding a second set of bureaucratic flow charts to the solution space)
Calculating actual buyout cost at least inception and actual rent charge that will be paid
So. Much. Math. Numbers and symbols, oh my
Probably all with calculator links that were already debugged and just need the August programs.
Iâll respond by apologizing for the assumption, but Iâve know in my live 3 owners of new car dealerships, I have owned about 69 cars, trucks, motorcycles, and only personally leased 1 for me and 2 for my wife, and at the end of the day I have 100% faith in my salesman that Iâve used for 15 years, but the new dealership I visited today seems like the same old snake pit you hear stories about, listening to the salesman behind their desk ask the questions of the interested customers that dictate the direction they will utilize âthe killâ to maximize the profit not only for the dealership, but also for the sales representative.
I can go back and forth for days and week and then maybe the light bulb will light up and hallouya, Iâll âget itâ, but until that day, Iâm still in the learning phase of how to achieve to lowest price.
So, IF I have the wherewithal to understand things and I get the blessings of those who comment on these things that I did it correct, great. However, If I choose to hire an angent and pay them $00-$500-$1000, is that investment going to ge me the bottom line lowest cot that I could not get on my own because I donât âplay the gameâ and those who may have the professional experience to make the deals and are successful, they can make it work for substantial savings, or is the work end resuly to just be a few hundred?
tl;dr most of the ârecord / unicornâ deals were hackrs grinding on dealers, but brokers can save you a lot of time and aggrevation to get a solid deal, better than most first timers can hack on their own, and itâs done.
You are going to want to stop and educate yourself if you want any hope of hacking a great deal yourself. A lot of good suggestions already in this thread.
There are a lot of comparable recent examples if you search.
Please help me finish this restructure a very simply math sheet showing:
CASH DEAL
MSRP $77,060
DISCOUNT OFF OF MSRP $5,111
Total cost of vehicle with discount and reductions $71,949
NJ TAX $4,766
DEALER FEES $850 +/-
LICENSE & REGISTRATION $401.50
TOTAL COSTS WITH ALL ITEMS LISTE/NEEDED (BOTTOM LINE IS: $77,966.50
LEASE DEAL 7500 mi, 36 mo., $0 down, terminate it in 1 month or less
MSRP $77,060
DISCOUNT ON MSRP $5,111
EV TAX CREDIT DISCOUNT $7500
Total cost of vehicle with MSRP discount and credits $64,449
NJ Tax
Dealer Fees
License Registration
Total cost of lease
Buyout=$
OR
<Is it advantageous to do a 1 pay lease>?S
So, CASH vs LEASE vs 1 PAY LEASE
Those are the 3 numbers I need to compare to make my decision.
Do I try to use the tools here on this forum to fill in the blanks of let the dealer put their own numbers in, trust they are honest and not tweaking numbers for their advantage?
If youâre doing an immediate buyout thereâs no advantage to a one pay lease. A one pay lowers the MF, but the MF is essentially irrelevant for an immediate buyout. In fact you should see if the dealer will give you a bigger discount in exchange for a higher MF. But that doesnât work if youâve already told them youâre doing an immediate buyout.
JFC just lease to buy. Any mark up in money factor means very little seeing as you are buying it out shortly. You wonât be able to do it in 2 weeks. You need to wait for MVC work to clear and for the vehicle to be titled.
Again, the numbers do not make sense.
$64,449 is what I wish to pay + tax + fees, then kill the lease in 30 days etc. (pay it off) ($70-$71k)
Want the lowest possible cost âout the doorâ, but 2 dealers, with same MSRP for a lease with the discounts and credits come back with a âGross Cap Costâ of $77,351.14, not the $70-$71k, and a pure 100% cash purchase with no EV tax credit is in the neighborhood of $77k +/- a few dollars. So again, I need to see the value of structuring a lease to capture the credits and lower the cost vs no EV credit, which it seems is becoming difficult to get comparisons, breakdowns.
I guess I can just wait until the market shakes out and they come back begging for the business.
The number make sense. The total cost of leasing and immediate buy out is lower than purchasing from the outset based on the numbers that you yourself have posted.
You wrote an sample equation above. The equation is irrelevant; the only thing that matters here is that â2â is less than â4â on the bottom line. Does it matter how they got to the bottom line, as long as one is lower than the other?
At any rate, I have nothing further to contribute here, other mentioning that you are possibly talking yourself out of a solid deal.
NOWâŚwith the correct replies Iâm beginning to receive, itâs all beginning to make senseâŚand I apologize for my ignorance.
Just to recap:
The total cost of the deal, my expected outlay of funds to do the deal is:
$77,351.14 - $6,284.61 ($7,500 EV rebate minus the 1st month of $1,215.39) making the bottom line deal cost of $71,066.53, correct? If so, then it all begins to make sense, and Iâm beginning to understand it all a bit better.
Before I commit, is there any benefit to any âwiggle roomâ to tweak the deal before any commitment, and if so where/how? I really donât want to should I be forced to pay a $199 âVehicle Theft Protectionâ (windows etching), and because of the anticipated buyout of the lease in the 1st month itâs kinda a moot point to fight over rates, residuals and money factors, no/yes?
Also, should I do the deal and then at the time I pay off the lease in 30 days âgiftâ it to my wife to avoid any NJ taxes? Just asking, trying to save some $$.