I’d steer away from looking at as an opportunity cost unless you plan on not having a car for 3 months. You’re either paying on the existing lease or paying on the new lease. Going down this road leads to sales psychology and could possibly give you the appearance if a good deal when it reality it isn’t. Confirmation bias will then lead you into a possibly worse financial decision. * it’s your money though
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I don’t understand what you mean by this (and perhaps this is what @ApexHunt was getting at).
Are Clubmans generally going for full MSRP?
True Car is showing me an average discount of 2%-4% off MSRP in my region.
Opportunity cost of the $1200 I have to pay for current lease (remaining 3 months) or look at it as money shifted to a new lease payment. I’m on the hook for paying that either way is my thinking although does not affect a new contract term/payment.
Used the calc to squeeze mini for another $500 off and get a sale price of $41K (MSRP was $45,175) and end up with $572 a month (36/10K). Paying $3K down for fees and first payment.
I’m not a “business” person, but, if such is the case, then it’s not opportunity cost, right? I agree w/ others that you seem to be going through some curious mental gymnastics about this.
If there’s not an actual pull ahead program, then you are effectively paying for 2 cars when you are only using one of them. Seems a waste of money to me.
It’s a pull forward, existing lease is closed and new one begins.
That’s also the exact same definition of a Lease Trade in to a Dealer.
What you are missing is, you might lose any equity in a ‘dealer pull forward’.
Checked with a few dealers, no equity in the mini that’s worth the effort ($26K to buy and then sell for $26-28K).
Closure: Decided to pass on this MINI deal and go squeeze a VW dealer for their final 2022 ID.4 Pro S RWD and Gradient Pack for $39K (MSRP $49K) at $0 down and then buy the lease out after month 1.
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