2022 Tucson SEL AWD w/ Convenience

Please reference attachments before commenting/asking ?'s

I’m currently in talks with a local dealership in 10567 to lease a Calypso Red 2022 Tucson SEL AWD w/ Convenience pk since 6/21/21. When I first went into the dealership, I received a verbal/written quote (first 3 documents of original deal are attached) of $32044 MSRP (hand written on 2nd doc by sales guy), in addition to a “Vehicle Information” doc, which had a total price of $32539 (which was v confusing bc it included stuff in *bold I didn’t want/agree to).

Hyundai Motor Finance incentives for in June '21 for my zip were $1500 Cash, MF -.00069 RV 61% for 36/10k on this vehicle. I was given another doc (2nd doc) that itemized the down payment and cost per month as $2850 down $350.51/mo for “A++ Tier” credit, which was written on the doc & said verbally that was the best HMF could do. I was told by sales associate & sales manager that if I put down a $500 deposit, I would secure not only this specific car (with VIN# removed for privacy), I would also “lock in the June deal”, as stated on the deposit yellow slip (aka $32044, $1500 cash at *assumed tier 1 of .00069 & 61%).

Fast forward a few weeks and I called to get info on my credit app to make sure I was in Tier 1. Unfortunately I was not, so I was told to add my husband to the app which I did and it approved me for Tier 1 pricing.

When my husband called to confirm the receipt of his credit app, the manager (same as I spoke to) said that I was no longer eligible for the June deal, regardless of $500 deposit. When pressed, he admitted that the original $2850 down $350/mo deal was actually based on an MF of .00109 (not HMF’s .00069) and that this month’s deals were actually better at MF= .00062 RV= 61% but the incentive lowered to $750 and that was all he could offer now.

Confused, we asked what we are eligible for now and why even pay a deposit & wait for car to be delivered, if the deal we get is whatever is available at the time the car get here? He got EXTREMELY combative with us when we questioned his math/logic to the point where he said “if you don’t like what I’m saying, you can go somewhere else”.

Finally he offered us the original deal of $2850 down at $350/mo but would not give us the specific #'s including MSRP/sale price over the phone, or confirm this was based on HMF’s #'s for July because when we put these #'s into Leasehackr calculator, it did not add up to the #'s he was giving us. We told him after speaking with him we realized I was never quoted “tier 1” pricing but it was a clear their dealership had markup-ed the original MF (to .74% APR or .00004) and then he hung up on us.

I waited a few days and called the General Sales Manager to speak to someone more level-headed, with unfortunately no luck. The GSM reiterated that the original deal of MSRP = $32539 (again, includes stuff I don’t want) wasn’t actually correct and gave me a completely different MSRP denoted as “gross cap cost” of $34894.22 (4th attachment) and said I was actually getting a great deal at a selling price of $32539 (before incentives/down).

I told him I thought they were messing with me, since this # of $34894.22 was NEVER mentioned to me at the time of deposit, nor was it “at MSRP” for the vehicle or written anywhere in the original docs I took home. I pointed out the “discount” to $32539 wasn’t what I was originally offered nor was I interested in the add-ons included in the “vehicle information” sheet. He told me “its on the window sticker and I can’t just get rid of any of it. It’s what the MSRP is for this exact vehicle with this VIN#” and “If this isn’t something you’re interested in, you have free will (to go elsewhere)”.

So I’m bringing this here b/c I’ve done copious amount of research and don’t feel like these people are being honest or have integrity. Worst case, I want someone who is more knowledgable to help me see what I may be missing. I know its savage AF to post the details of this particular dealership, but I’ve been encouraged by people I’ve met here to share my personal experience and get a second (or 3rd-4th…opinion).

I checked the dealer website and it looks like they only have 1 Tucson in stock in the entire dealership. Are you sure this dealership even has any cars left to sell you? If they don’t, I’d say the pricing discussion is moot.

I didn’t even read through everything in detail you wrote as, IMO, the above is the end of the conversation with this dealership. Id move on.


Thanks for the reply. The vehicle this whole deal is based was offered to me that was scheduled to come in on July 15th, 2021 (not one I picked out myself). They told me explicitly that since cars are going fast bc of chip issues, I should put my deposit down for THIS vehicle with this specific VIN# (again, blocked on docs for privacy in case I do get it).

Got it. The likely answer is someone else offered them more money for the same car, so they’d rather forgive your deposit and sell to someone else, or ask for more money from you.


Ok, I thought maybe the same but thank you for your input, it’s really helpful.

I had a RAV4 XLE on deposit for $26,2## in late April. Before I the dealer even let me know it arrived, I’m sure someone naively agreed to pay MSRP, and poof went my car! Shitty thing to do. However, I would probably have done the same thing.

1 Like

I inferred they’ve told you multiple times in multiple ways that they’re not interested in doing business with you. Take the hint.

You inferred or you blatantly said? As a trusted hackr, this comment is less than helpful.

When a dealer pulls these kinds of shenanigans, taking the hint to walk away is the right path. Tell them to pound sand.

you stated that they gave you the original deal of 350/mo 2850 down again, so whats the hold up?


I find the advice given by “trusted hackers” on this forum really interesting. Interesting in the sense that no productive advice on navigating these kinds of sexist, classist behaviors are ever suggested, but instead are treated as 1) a Normal & OK part of the process 2) To be expected 3) Something that isn’t abhorrent to the average consumer.

I appreciate the time it takes y’all to post a comment, but if there’s nothing of substance to add in relation to navigating these very real, unfortunate situations that most people experience while trying to find someone who doesn’t take complete advantage of them, maybe save your time/effort by not commenting things like “oh we’ll just walk away”?

People are here to learn what to look for and how to negotiate. Not to be told how to walk away.

What you’re describing isn’t classist or sexist. It’s a bad dealer pulling typical crap. It’s a reality that those things happen, no matter who the customer is. The most effective strategy for working with people that behave in that manner is to tell them to pound sand and patronize a dealer that won’t pull that crap.

Part of being an informed, effective consumer is having the confidence to stand your ground, recognize when someone is trying to manipulate the transaction, and control the deal by taking it elsewhere.

1 Like

The hold up is that the original deal I was quoted for tier 1 was not really tier 1 pricing. MF for tier one in June for my area was .00069, not .00109 like they quoted me. If it was this is what my payments would look like based on what they said was tier 1 CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR

Ok that’s fair. I appreciate you elaborating your point.

You’re not entitled to buy rate just because you qualify for tier 1. You’re just entitled to not having a credit driven mark up by the bank. The dealer still can add a mark up on top of that.

you agreed to a number, a down payment and signed on that (by giving deposit). you did not agree to how the dealer would get to that number either being dealer discount, rebates or mf markup. so if you think they are making money by marking up mf, you should’ve done research so you would have a better target monthly.

Why dont you use the numbers from July to make an offer to the new dealership?

1 Like

I def understand that. What I don’t understand/tolerate is being told by the sale managers that I was quoted tier 1 manufacture/finance #’s when that is simply not the case. From my understanding, HMF allows certified dealers to increase MF by under 1% APR (not sure exactly what decimal that is). But I went into the dealership knowing that and the MF and RV but just needed the MSRP for a specific vehicle.

They gave me a bunch of docs with lots of different information/numbers on it saying they would contact me once they have my actual credit tier nails down and that is when they started to push back.

I’m not considering working with them further but I’m trying to use this frustrating experience to learn so I can take my knowledge elsewhere.

I appreciate your comment as it shows what kind of business you run.