Sorry I don’t have my K with me it’s sitting at my office in a filing cabinet. Like mentioned above, 3.5K DAS is still 3.5K DAS whether it’s cap cost or for starts. Either way that money is put towards the lease and it was paid to the dealership so to me it doesn’t matter what it went to since I was planning on doing 3.5K towards my lease anyway.
Is this dealer in Newport Beach?
Yes. Newport Beach
Can you beat the deal?
I tried to get this car for one of my customers. White on Black?
Competition… in demand vehicle… interesting… 
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Thanks for taking the time to explain it. I’ve learned a lot from this website but that part is still very confusing to me. Especially since the fees, taxes, doc fees etc. all vary so much from deal to deal. But I appreciate you nonetheless!
Yes. White on black or black on black. need 3rd row.
Your taxes and DMV fees shouldn’t vary, as those are based on your registration address.
And in general every quote can be normalized to total costs. Eg for a 36m lease that’s DAS + (monthly x 35).
But quote-shopping is a terrible strategy. You can ask for 100 quotes and 99 will be bad.
I meant “from deal to deal” on THIS site. I’m not shopping for quotes, just trying to educate myself.
Concentrate on learning what others are getting on the negotiable parts of the deal (basically dealer discount and sometimes MF).
The most helpful skills I picked up here were learning how the lease itself is calculated, and then how to personalize an example deal for my situation by using the LH calculator.
You should be able to look at a Chicago deal (~20% tax) and an New Hampshire deal (0% tax) the same way if you ignore the parts that aren’t negotiable.
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That’s why the calculator and the discussions here revolve around separating those variables.
What’s the main negotiable? Dealer discount AKA pre-incentive discount.
How do you save yourself money beyond that? Stacking as many incentives as possible. MSD and prepaid maintenance when it makes sense. Minimizing tax in places like TX. Post-sale rebates. Etc
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