Does it have to be an SUV? What’s your cap for monthly payment and DAS?
I would reconsider that. For this payment You can get pretty loaded $76k BMW X5 with M sport appearance. Check what LH BMW brokers can offer. Good luck.
I’ve asked for a breakdown in depth and will post on here when he sends. Thanks for your help with this.
I’m newer to this as this is only my second lease. I am just looking at the monthly payment and thinking that alone isn’t bad since I would pay 0 when I leave the dealer. The others factors didn’t mean to much to me, but now you have my thinking.
I highly doubt I can do that with the high miles 16,500 a year. Plus I would probably have to pay MSD.
The M sport would be a 50 or a 40? I don’t want a normal boring X5 40.
Has to be an SUV because I would use this as my family hauler also. I already have a B9 Audi S4 so i’m covered on the performance car segment. My monthly cap would be right around where I am at on this ST. $730 a month, 0$ down when I walk out the dealer.
You still need the comparison information. The dealer isn’t going to give you that.
Remember that first post that walked through the steps on how to determine what your target deal is? That wasn’t recommended to give you busy work. Those are the steps that one needs to follow to have a solid negotiation target.
If you’re set on an explorer ST, that’s cool. Personally, I think it’s a stupid car, but you do you. If it’s what makes you happy, that’s fine. The follow up to that is insuring that you’re getting the best deal you can on it. What you have here may be a great deal. It may be a horrible deal. Right now, there’s insufficient information to make that judgement. The dealer isn’t going to provide you all the information you need to do that analysis.
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Are you sure that the dealer has quoted you $0 DAS and not just $0 down here?
No, I am actually not sure. So you are saying that when I go to the dealer, they still may charge money before I walk out for DAS even though I was crystal clear with him I wanted to pay 0 when I walked out with the car?
Why do you keep insisting your quote was for 0 DAS?
There’s at least $2,400 TTL here… more if the “etc” contains acq, doc, etc.
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I don’t know how they have structured the deal. $0 “down” is an ambiguous term that can either refer to $0 downpayment (cap cost reduction) or $0 due at sale. Personally, until I see otherwise, I always assume that ambiguous numbers are structured in the dealer’s favor. Never assume it’s in your favor.
It’s entirely possible that they’ve put the numbers together with $0 DAS. It’s entirely possible that they’ve put the numbers together with $0 down, so there are thousands DAS.
An easy way to tell would be if you had put together a target deal using the steps in the first post. You’d quickly be able to judge if the breakdown you have, with buy rate mf, would actually output $730/mo with $0DAS or if it has to have a due at sale amount. Without that target though, you’re just flailing in the wind.
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I will post the actual breakdown when I hear back from my dealer. Until then I am going to keep my mouth shut because the more I say , the more you guys on here seem to get on me.
All I am interested in is if I am getting a good deal for this particular car. Everyone knows this car leases bad and a lot of people on here seem to dislike it for some reason. I am fine with a high lease number, but just want a decent deal on that number. I have yet to hear of another SUV in this segment that I should be looking at in my price range.
And I keep trying to give you the tools to determine that.
It’s simple. The only way to know if your deal is a good deal or not is to first determine what a good deal is.
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You can get better “value” for the money you are spending.
Would rather get an XC90 or X5 but that’s just my choice if I had a budget of 700 ish.
Yes, I am well aware I can get those. It has crossed my mind, but I need to be more under the radar with my clientele like I said. For my miles though, I would have to put down MSD and probably something down.
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You’re not necessarily a great lease candidate. All the awesome deals we see around LH are for 10k miles or under a year, some can do 12k. There is quite a residual hit for over 15k miles. Have you considered purchasing 2-year old CPO? You might be able to get to where you want to be after the car has already depreciated some.
I actually have and looked at used 2020’s (first model year they came out). They are not discounted a lot and I am not looking to spend 700 plus a month on a 72 month finance. I’d rather lease and get a new car every 3 years essentially.
IDK what clients you’re meeting but here in the NY tristate every realtor drives an X3, GLC, etc. Builders drive $75k+ trucks.
An SQ5, X3m40i or Volvo is not ostentatious at all around here
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I work in a blue collar industry. I know what everyone drives around here as I live in Bergen county NJ (look it up if your not familiar). Showing up with a 75k BMW would be a slap in the face to clients who are based mostly out of PA, VA, WV, upstate NY…you see where i’m going here. I have to be practical and under the radar. That’s why I have my S4 Audi as my other vehicle.
I’m talking about $60k vehicles on average but yeah if the badge itself is a deal-breaker then take the Ford.
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Yes, unfortunately the badge is a deal breaker.
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