Yes, I read your response, and I disagree with it.
There are big swings in payments going on as a result in the change of lease programs, not just dealer discounts.
Yes, discounts on many brands suck right now, but that’s not the only reason that leasing right now sucks. Even when good discounts are attained, the leases still are bad because of way worse lease programs (rv/mf/incentives).
Case in point, see many bmw and volvo leases that are showing up with percentage discounts not far off what is “normal”, but are still $100-200 more per month than “normal”.
Can you share the details of this deal? Trying to secure a similar vehicle in NJ and being quoted way more.
Lexus loyalties were completely gone for May (or April I can’t remember), it was $3000 for some models, that made a big difference.
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I’m in a similar dilemma and also wondering if I should pull the trigger in May, or if June will be same or (gasp!) better because ‘22 starts in July. I don’t need the car til July when my x1 lease ends. Given the market I feel like I’ve been quoted a decent deal with May numbers especially bc it’s a build not in stock unit.
What is the deal and we can help you determine based on other data points whether it is good or not
Sure!
I couldn’t reverse engineer it with the calculator but here’s the summaries. We quoted 2 sets of options:
#1 msrp 52375 - x3 x30i w/ executive package
$518.16/month with 3579.93 due at signing (includes first month payment) — includes loyalty, does NOT yet include OL code from ultimate driving experience event.
#2 msrp 50,725 - x3 x30i w/ premium package — same terms as above but 504.64/month and 3527.41 at signing.
Both custom builds should arrive by July and he said he’s not worried about build slots. This is a corporate dealership so I’m guessing he has some pull there.
What I’m kinda hoping for is the hybrid to go on sale for June; I really liked it!
I put extra DAS on a BMW Lease to get the payment below $500 so I would pay less in MSD’s. It was borderline though I think the payment was going to be around ~510 or 515 without the extra down. It’s now $499.96
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36/10 or 36/12 terms? Did he state what MF he was using? What state? Is tax being rolled in or is it part of your DAS?
Great questions! its 36/10, NY state, and tax, delivery and various state/delear fees are in the DAS.
I don’t know the MF, but he knows we have top tier from the last lease he did for us, and it’s a NY dealer so MSD is not possible 
Having tier 1 credit does not prevent the dealer from marking up the mf over buy rate.
Right now, you have an ambiguity left in your deal that could cost you at least an extra thousand dollars.
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You’re right, that’s certainly a possibility. But just given the market and what even the brokers here are listing, this seems very much in the ballpark, no?
Monthlies from brokers are useless, as things vary dramatically based on your personal situation.
The easy solution here is to set a target deal first using the pre-incentive discount from broker listings and the lease programs as they apply to you and then use that to compare their offers to.
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You look to be in the 9% pre-incentive range based on the numbers you do know and assumptions that I made playing around with the numbers. I and the rest of the community would recommend to roll your taxes into the monthly payment, for if you total the car driving out of the lot, you are out all of that upfront money.
For a NY dealer (no 500-600 doc fee like NJ) and 9%, in this atmosphere that is pretty solid IMO.
Thanks friend! My usual approach is indeed to roll everything into the monthly. However we just had a baby and looking at astronomical monthly daycare costs so I kinda rather hedge with money I have now… TBH I even considered doing a one pay lease this time around if it’d save me some $
Dumb question that I never considered – If you roll taxes and fees into the monthly, is interest charged on them also? Since you’re effectively asking the bank to pay the government for you and recoup it over the lease term?
Yes, you pay rent charge on any capitalized costs.
Thanks all. Anyway this brings me back to the original questions… should I jump on these May numbers or roll the dice into June?
Yes, rolling it into the monthly will incur interest charges. Just take the money you would put up front in the bank and use it to pay your monthly. No need to risk losing thousands of dollars to save 50 bucks in interest over 3 years.
No one can tell you with any confidence one way or the other. The only thing you have going for you is that you will have a 90 day rate lock since you are doing a build. So hopefully when the car comes in, the numbers will be in your favor.
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This is something new to me, haven’t heard this before… so does that mean I can lock it in now and within 90 days if a better price pops up I can change to the better one?
You can lock it in with the current programs and if the programs are better when the vehicle comes in, you can switch to that.
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