2020 MB A220, What am i Missing?

Who cares. It’s a crap deal. Go onto the next dealer.

4 Likes

roger that! agreed thanks!

So instead of working with the dealer you already have a relationship with and figuring out a payment that works for both, your solution is to start all over again with another dealer. Not really the best advice.

Isn’t out of the ordinary for these sheets to not show the acquisition fee, just like it doesn’t show MF for a lease. The itemized list is for a purchase.

Also not shocked they aren’t itemizing the incentives. Dealers love to hide those in the “discount” amount to make it look like they’re giving you more off. This is why it’s always recommended to negotiate based on pre-incentive discount amounts.

gotcha.thanks for the help.

I personally haven’t seen a dealer that started with a really high offer move significantly on the price.

1 Like

Correct and 100% “Savings” has the rebates in there otherwise it would be broken down as selling price, Sonic discount, and rebates/incentives.

Its not at sticker and even if rebates are in there, you can still negotiate a deal rather than acting like a fool because a manager did not want to be a whore and give a unicorn deal on the first pass. I worked at a dealer where every deal started at sticker plus full rate and we would go to 12% to 14% off and buy rate to put deals together.

I’m not saying not to negotiate or that the first offer is the best offer, just that in my experience, I’ve never had a dealer that started high make big leaps during negotiation. Usually, the initial offer has provided some insight into if a dealer is motivated or not. Obviously, that’s not always the case.

I should add there was a difference between someone who was in the store and someone who submitted and internet lead. Internet leads always got aggressive quotes and in store leads were sticker plus rate (but we never let anyone leave at that). Regardless, I still think it is bad advice to find a new dealer given the information we have from OP.

Actually, it was a typo. I meant OP should go onto the next car. A220 lease prices are crap.

1 Like

That I can agree with.

this is the offer I received on a loaner A220. I had about $3,800 of negative equity in my trade in.

Let me get my microscope out so I can read that :eye::eye:

You might want to cross out the dealer’s info and the salesperson’s name, too…

You’re paying $26K over 41 months for what is essentially an upscale economy car. That doesn’t seem like a good use of money, period.

Why roll in negative equity into a new lease? Do you really need to get into a new car?

I am no financial adviser, but paying nearly $600 per month (that includes about $3800 in negative equity) over 41 months for a loaner 2019 A class is a terrible idea. DON’T DO IT.

I didn’t do it. But once I pay off the car I’ll probably trade it in.

This just looks horrible. The A220 is NOT worth that kinda money. you could easily get a much better car for ~$600 a month.

Get a C class loaner for less?

Is a base 2020 model at $420 reasonable? Long time lurker, but not able to create a thread.

36m/10k
Residual: 60%
MF: 0.00164

Price: $34895
Dealer discount: $3839 (11%)
United discount: $500
Cap cost: $30556

Fees: $555.50
Dealer: $799

Total: $33851

$1500 DAS -> $423 inc tax.

Although once I left… finance manager said he “reworked” the number to $399 inc tax.!

EDIT: Went on Edmunds to see the base MF is 0.00119, which gives me the “magical” $399.

IMG_7269|375x500