Click on the zero drive-off button
Have you read the calculator faq
This assumes that invoice is some sort of limit or the only place they can make money on a deal.
It’s a weird time in the auto industry… do what you are comfortable with, but don’t expect fire sales. A lot of discussion around this in earlier threads, but in short, supply and inventory is limited. Factories have been closed for awhile now and dealers are looking to maximize profit per vehicle as they odds of them hitting volume/backend bonuses at this point is slim (none). GLWT!
is a 10% discount considered a fire sale? I was under the impression this was a good not great discount to expect
Just saying don’t be surprised if the dealer doesn’t play ball, and you have to move on to another dealer 
after all, look at your first offer and where you’re at now. YMMV
Edit: please see @mllcb42 advice. Good luck!
got it - yes thank you! it’s tough to determine exactly where the discount range will land but am still scouring edmunds for any recently sold equivalent cars in the northeast;
Why forget 1% rule? Show me a real sign and drive lease deal at 1% that is bad. Only exception to this would be Taco/Tundra. Those are freak occurrences which won’t last too much longer.
Only occurrence? Many BMW, Infiniti and Volvo deals would be bad if people followed the 1% rule.
There are lots that are bad at 1%. There are lots that aren’t even achievable at 1%. There are next to none where 1% is actually the right number.
It also is highly dependent on region, incentives one is eligible for, tax situation, lease term, etc. On the exact same car, 1% may be a great deal for one person and a horrible deal for another.
It is absolutely useless as a metric for if something is a good deal or not. Sure, there will be some deals that end up at 1%, but they aren’t great deals because they’re 1%. A stopped clock is still right twice a day.