Wait he said 70k is the MSRP and selling price is at 62k that pretty good discount. Dealer calculation is somewhat incorrect unless he owe any previous lease
you should have went with a broker or did some more research, 2k discount is awful. You could have used the internet to search and still got 10-12% off a loaner. On a new car you should be able to get 6-8% easy no negotiating.
No, that is 4% MSRP pre-incentives and rebates. Like I said above, all leasehackrs negotiate pure MSRP % off car before adding rebates and incentives. There is 4-8% more room to move.
depends on region as well, certain areas of the country have a tough time getting the dealer discount to get a better deal, also certain places have high doc fees that add $10-$20 to payment, i.e virginia, florida. Then you have taxes, but you can’t control any of that.
I would say start shopping cargurus for loaners 250+ days on the lot and the numbers you will start getting will look more like 4s and 5s. All depends on how much you wanna work/grind the deal, for most leasehackrs they go or (want to go) all the way down to the bone but anything over 15% is a good deal for most people. Time and effort are key here. You will here lots of No’s before you get a yes.
Do not any any incentives on top of the discounted price. Discount should be pure from the MSRP first. On the MSRP, the best I got was 10% from the original MSRP. Then, apply all your incentives. (Lease credit $3250 + loyalty $2k + OL code $1k or $500) OL can be assigned when you sign up. Got mine by signing up didnt attend. But I dont know if OL code would work at the dealer.
With 60% residual, 0.001280 MF on 10,000 miles.
Start from here and work your way up to get an additional discount on the vehicle.
Just think MF, residual, gov fee are preset
Just get an idea on the below
Discount on the car is the main point
