It’s true. This morning I saw an S90 with dealer plates on the 134 freeway and my first thought was “I wonder if he’s a Hackr?”
Technically, all 10 of your MSDs reduced marked up rate down to .00007. So, you won’t get anything back. If you didn’t pay marked up MF, it would have been a different story with max 6 MSDs possible.
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We negotiated from the buy rate, but on the Momentum. I suppose he slipped in a marked up rate when the conversation moved to the Inscription and I didn’t notice because he already had the 10 MSD’s built in and only showed the .00007 rate, which is obviously low so I never questioned it.
MOM MF is .00078, .00028 with 10 MSDs. But you’ll get it back, at least.
Congrats. Any comments on the B&W sound system?
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The B&W was the main draw to upgrade to the Inscription at the last minute. I did crank it a little, definitely sounds fine but I have a hard time telling the difference between good and very good speakers, I’m sure others could hear the difference. At least not rattling like my Jaguar F-Type’s speakers did.
And all for just $3,200 
I was inspired by your deal @MDR and tried for the best I could get in my area under my tight time line. I have a current lease at $398 a month that has to get turned in while I am also closing on a house in the next few months. Due to that I had to keep my payments at $398 but also get it done asap. Not as good as your deal but better than A-Plan 
MSRP: $67,050
Selling: $51,550
Monthly: $398
Down (out the door incl. tax, fee, first month): $4,800
7,500 miles
36 months
(had originally been 10,000 then i downgraded and I have a feeling they didn’t give me the full amount off, so maybe one of the more experienced on here can tell me) And yes I had to put alot down because I needed the monthly to be the same for the mortgage bankers.
Dealer in NJ, I am in NY.
Includes A-Plan and all current incentives
I owe you guys a big Thank you for pointing out the MF blunder. I spoke with the sales manager today and he refunded me 4 of the MSD’s, lowered the MF from .00007 to .00002. I also took back my $500 down payment since I no longer would get double points on my credit card since the payment was under 5k. I’ll update the numbers above.
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I had them in a loaner XC90, they sound really great compared to the base stereo.
The base model speakers sound a lot better with the tweaking of the equalizer settings. They’re not configured particularly well from the factory.
Why do you think that a new $10k loan at $398/mo will be the same as your currently close to $0 $398/mo loan?
Mortgages, like most other loans, work off of a specific debt to income ratio. I don’t want to answer for him, but I’m assuming his goal of keeping his payment the same is to keep the debt to income ratio exactly as it was. The loan balance on the lease makes no difference to the bank when calculating monthly debt to income ratios.
It’s new debt comparing to the current, no? How can it not affect debt to income ratio? Unless his income increases proportionally at the same time. And I was in fact told that my car loan does make difference.
I’m not sure I follow…
If the new $398 Volvo is replacing the old $398 car (lease term completed and car returned), DTI has remained unchanged. If the new $398 Volvo is in addition to the other $398 car (say, for example, if he has six months left on that lease) he has now changed his DTI by adding an additional $398 a month of recurring debt.
Then the new loan shows as $10k (24x398) with monthly 398, while current shows 398 (assuming one payment left) with 398 monthly, no? Unless I’m completely off here. Or the amount of loan stays the same until the end?
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You’re correct in the numbers that will show up as the loan balance, but for purposes of calculating debt to income ratios mortgage companies almost always look at monthly debt.
So, in theory, the balance could be $398, or 398 million dollars, it’s only the monthly obligation that they look at when calculating the debt to income ratio. They add up all of the recurring monthly obligations and compare that number to the recurring monthly income.
For example, if you have $10,000 a month in income and $5,000 a month in recurring monthly debt (such as car payments, student loans, mortgage payments, etc.) you would have a 50% debt to income ratio in this example.
I suppose there might be some banks that take total loan balances into consideration, as well, but I have yet to come across any.
http://www.datafacts.com/2015/02/23/%20stop-dont-mess-up-your-home-mortgage
I don’t know anything about your financial situation besides what you just told all of us. I can’t believe your mortgage company hasn’t instructed you to “not change your financial picture”
adding a new car payment is one of the worst things you could do when preparing to close on a mortgage.
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As you mentioned, you know nothing of the poster’s financial situation. It is, therefore, presumptive of you to speculate, particularly because the poster did not solicit your input regarding his mortgage. Just my opinion. Notwithstanding the aforementioned, I do not disagree that taking on any new loans (even if they do not impact one’s monthly DTI as discussed in previous posts) is not advantageous during the mortgage process.
what should the RV and MF be on a T-6?
24 mo. 10 k miles