Doc says no tax or registration so payment will go above $700/month. Only thing missing is doc fee so likely that $1,149 includes cap cost reduction in it.
Ask them for a breakdown of that line; hopefully it’s tax.
Doc fee should be zero as I asked for zero down. But this is higher than what I wanted to pay…
You still have to pay for it… zero down just means you are rolling it into the payment but still needs show up on the breakdown.
You are correct. I look at the the the total payment divided by the lease term to determine if it’s a good deal or not.
I’d ask the dealer what your true drive offs are.
OP, how much lower are you trying to get? It already seems like a strong deal, and if support is ending in a few days, and the stock is drying up, you run the risk of missing out completely just to save an extra $500-1000 or whatever over the course of 3 years.
At the end of the day it’s a $75k sports car. It’s not the type of vehicle someone that’s on a budget leases.
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Trying to get below $600 per month before tax with zero drive off. But seems like unlikely since they have to discount another $2400.
Can you get an OL code? Below 600 is probably unrealistic but that being said their is a reason that car is still there. Push on the fact it doesn’t have comp and push for 13-15% off (if your indifferent on if you get the car or not).
If you’re in the Midwest you’re probably not going to be able to hit the same discount levels as in Socal or on the east coast. Check on cargurus.com to see how long they’ve had the vehicle. I think 12% plus incentives is possible but you might need to hold out a few days.