2018 BMW i3 - Need help



I am trying to figure out how the dealer is getting their numbers and match to the pricing calculator. The MF has been bumped so that acquisition fee can be waived (and MSD’s have been applied). I am getting a payment of $195 per month via the calculator but the payment from the dealer screen shot is $234.05.

Thank you!

The MF makes no sense at all. If the acquisition fee were waived, it would be .00227.

Acquisition fee is waived but then dealer is doing the 7 MSDs so money factor looks correct. Not sure why he isn’t doing it in the security deposit drop down but maybe can’t

For payment if dealer is using cash down as money due at signing then you get pretty close to their number.

Thank you. Basically via Leasehackr calculator, the total comes out to $6,289 and via dealer sheet it is ~$6,900.

Also, do you guys think this is a good deal?

16% discount off MSRP is super strong in my opinion. 10k in rebates assuming this is the 7.5k+2k loyalty or conquest + 500 OL code or the like–that is great too. The other fees of $1048 probably are plates, doc, and other so they’re likely non-negotiable. I got a $49,495 i3 and payment was about the same (but no money out of pocket)—anyway I think it’s a strong deal.

FWIW I never got my numbers to match the dealers numbers but decided the deal was sweet enough for me so I took it.

A few suggestions:

  1. Are you a CT resident getting the car from a CT dealer? If so, are you aware of the CHEAPR rebate program? It is worth a $500 credit, and it can be applied DIRECTLY as cash to your purchase order as a ‘down payment’


If the dealership did not mention this - shame on them (it costs neither them nor BMW anything as its fully funded by the CT CHEAPR program). Alternatively you can NOT have them apply the credit, and just wait for CHEAPR to mail you a check. (This seemed more of a hassle, and because I was doing a one-pay lease, it made more sense for me to apply it as a down payment when I got my i3 last year.)

  1. Aside from the CHEAPR money mentioned above: Please do not part with your hard-earned cash as ‘drive offs.’ You can roll everything: all taxes, fees, and even registration into your monthly payment. After MSD, the interest rate is a joke - why risk losing your cash in the event the car is totaled? (Certainly, no one is going to steal it…)

  2. I am willing to bet a solid portion of the $1048 in the quoted fees are for doc and/or conveyance fees. These are entirely negotiable, and I have avoided them far more often than not. (If needed: try getting them to discount the sale price further, equal to their fees. Even if they flat-out refuse, this gives you an opportunity to ‘split’ the fee by a least negotiating a partial discount.) Regardless: it costs you nothing to ask!

Good Luck!

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