Yeah I think money factor makes a difference but even the deal mentioned above costs 62000+ when we consider total payment with residual ,
As has been mentioned, your best option is going to be selling it and eating the difference. Youâre going to have to throw money at this to offload it (itâs a high payment on a car that leases poorly), and to rid yourself of liability, it makes the most sense to sell it rather than lease transfer.
Iâd work quick cause every month you wait is another G down the drain plus a growing delta as it depreciates. Itâs a very unfortunate situation. Best of luck
Or leave it by Newark with windows rolled down
Ah, the old Newark-swap-a-hack .
Best of luck OP, I know I had a shitty lease way back when, probably most on the forum have. At least your next lease will be a winner - lots of people here that can offer great advice and some that broker deals; if thatâs the route youâre more comfortable with.
I donât think this is your correct target audience. You will be better off offering it on leaseswap (or whatever itâs called). Otherwise you will need to offer a much larger incentive to peak anyoneâs interest.
Will still need a big incentive on Swapalease. The big issue is that the OP doesnât escape liability for the lease via a transfer. So unfortunately choices are 1) keep the car (convince wife that it actually isnât too big) and count the months until expiration, or 2) find a buyer and plug the $$$ gap on payoff to Audi financial.
I guess so ,I have a trade in offer for Q5 premium plus but I dont know what are good numbers on Q5 premium plus with same config (I guess for q7 they gonna hit me with a negative 5-8K)
Hire a broker! 20200202020
Any recommendations? I am from Houston Texas
This is going to be tough. Back in March, I was strongly considering Q7 3.0T Premuium plus, driver assist with MSRP at about $65K. Dealer where I did the test drive, straight up offered me ~$750/month on a 36mon/10K lease with $0 down + MSD. That was without any, zero, negotiation at all. I guess there would be some room to flex too. Unless your Q7 has much higher MSRP, $965 is very high for a 48 month lease.
Do not lease swap, itâs too much risk and itâll probably cost you more than just trying to sell it. Check the vehicle value with Carmax and see what the delta is between the buyout and what they offer. Itâs going to be a loss of $10-15k though.
I live in Houston (Woodlands) and a Q7 is an average size vehicle here. The Q7 is a great car, especially with the 3.0 engine. You sure you canât use it somehow and not lose the money?
Thanks AJ,Yeah I Have offer from Audi central for a swap with Q5 in which I only loose 6500 ,but was looking to see if anything better comes up
Assuming no dealer tax credits, if you trade in the Q7, wonât you save paying tax on the Q5? Thatâs another reason for trading it in.
To be honest I donât know how it works,If you can throw some light I can send you any information which will make you figure out how it goes.One dealer told me I wont qualify for tax credit because its a lease,and I wonder how I know if tax is included in the payment?
Iâm not in TX, so I donât know exactly how taxes work there. With a lease trade-in, I donât know if you or the bank gets the lease credit.
Iâve seen @dfwguy talk about Texas taxes before. Maybe he can chime in for your situation (trading in a leased Q7 early to lease a new Q5)
I would have went with an S Class instead, man you get the wife a car with a $965/mo payment and she doesnât like it, thatâs rough. Can you guys just swap cars? FYI nobody is going to want it.
She thinks the Q7 is too big so you recommend an S Class?
Anytime I see a ~$1000ish payment I always suggest an S Class, itâs one of standard comments.
If it was a âtax creditâ i.e Audi in Houston gave OP, lets say 6.25% of the MSRP (which is the sales tax in TX) as a credit, then OP really didnt pay any sales tax.
Otherwise if the sales tax was rolled in to the monthly payment, yes the sales tax on the vehicle is paid off.
So assuming the Q7 was 60k and OP paid 6.25% of 60k, when swapping for a vehicle with an MSRP less than 60k then you dont pay any sales tax (be it another lease or a purchase)
Trade-In and purchase (lease) has to be via the same dealer.
In OPâs case, CarMax would be the best solution. Or another better way is to see what the purchase price of the car is after 3-5 months from now (guessing it will be 45-50k (since OP already paid the taxes and i am assuming 10 months of $965), getting a private buyer will be a better choice since the buyer does not have to pay the sales tax.
I think the MF is the main killer here. For Q7 3.0 48/10K lease, I think RV and MF is 49% and 0.00249 (5.98% APR) respectively. Low RV and very high MF. A good portion of payment is interest cost. You can easily calculate interest per month by (cap cost + RV) x MF. If interest is too high, I am not so sure waiting for too long is necessary better. Market value finally catches up to what is owned, but interest is paid also. Maybe OP need to create a spreadsheet to see how different scenario play out, then determine the best course of action.