Californian’s have it lucky… it’s uncapped over here in Florida. I regularly see $800 doc fee, $200 electronic filing fee, etc.
I know that and stated so before (above). I have to pay $599 and of course negotiate discount to compensate for it. But in @clee920 case it’s $80 and not worth haggling over it.
In addition to what the others said, total the drive-off $ figure so everyone knows what the total should be.
And if there is a weekday where you can go over there after work, try to do that. Saturday’s are the busiest in a dealership and chances are you’ll have to wait for the finance guy even without them playing any games.
And be prepared to say NO to any additional warranties, protection plans and service plans once inside the finance guy’s office.
He came back: "I can do $325 tax included.
I can send you an online credit application to speed up the process!"
Tell the dealer you know what the incentives are and know of other people like @clee920 who are getting around 12K in discounts although with a VPP code. Without the code you should easily get 10.5K odd discount.
Ignore whatever screenshots dealers send and stick to your numbers for discount. You don’t have to prove anything to them and tell them from where you got your numbers. They are just playing dumb with you.
Tell them if they cannot come close to your asking you are moving on to another dealer. Once they realize they will loose the lead and the sale they will magically agree to your numbers. The dealers who said to @clee920 that they are passing all the discounts and that it was less than 4K are now offering her around 11.5K in discounts. Did that dealer just loose more than 7 grand on that sale?
You know that these numbers can be achieved so keep trying. To make you feel better, I called 25 odd dealers in 10 different states before I got one to bite on my numbers in December.
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Ask him for a breakdown on how he came back with that number?
Send him a screenshot of the LH calculator with the numbers you are getting and ask him why there is a difference.
Like @HN308 said - show him your numbers (which are essentially numbers that he gave you) and how you get $315/mo, and ask again for breakdown of everything due at signing. The difference is extra ~$330 somewhere.
DANG YOU GUYS:
"Sorry for the confusion
We made a mistake on our end
Yes, we can do $315 tax included
With the $1,466.75 drive off you mentioned"
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Now there should be consequences for mistakes made.
I am sure you can do better than these numbers as its not even 10th of the month. Try for a target of $300 all included. See what other dealers say and if nothing you have this where you can always go to.
Depends on how much appetite she has for negotiating with a bunch of dealers all over again. My philosophy is not to repeatedly pit one against the other, instead the first one to give me what I want gets my business (assuming they have my preferred colors /trim /options in their inventory).
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@clee920 Well, I would respectfully disagree here with @HN308. They gave you what you asked for, so I would not jerk them around for $15/mo and waste my time with 10 other dealers. This, of course, if you are happy with $315/mo, this particular car and the total drive off. There will always be someone who does better than you.
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@MrsMo, I believe @clee920 had mentioned she was near LA. If you are close you can get the same deal from the same dealer.
I would have done it if they would have given the car for $315 straight up. they keep playing games and say we made a mistake which was clearly a lie and trust me this is not over till the car is in your driveway. If they act fair you do the same with them.
However I agree if its worth it to do the negotiations all over again but to me its a no big deal sending few emails. $15/month is almost 2 months of lease payments and I will let her decide if she wants to do it.
@MrsMo, I believe you are looking at a Sport model which has a smaller lease support number. I would recommend asking the the dealer to screen shot the factory incentives for the “Premium” model instead of the “Sport” model. If the screen shot doesn’t show ~ $9K in lease support for the “Premium” model you know the dealer is just hustling you with bogus numbers.
I will send out a few e-mails today and see what happens. I’ve had luck finding 3.0t premium with similar #s but they do not have the driver’s assistance package that this one comes with. Here is the initial paperwork he sent over:
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O, please 
Every dealer tries playing games. No one will give you the deal you want straight up. And what if they really made mistake? Salesperson knows nothing about calculating lease payment most of the time. They often have no idea about MF and residual. I had to haggle on my last lease with the sales manager who used to work with my friend and my friend asked him to be good to me
Looks like you’re within a few dollars of an honest deal.
Personally, I would never put cash into a lease deal - if you were to lose the vehicle, you’re out the cash. The MF is so low on this, it doesn’t hurt to spread it out across the lease term. The difference in monthly payment is ~30$
Thank you! I’m also wondering if I should do that as well.
Wow, after everything I’ve learned on this site, I’m realizing just how terrible my current lease is. I signed a 22 month lease for $2500 down and $250/month for a mid-level Buick Encore with a MSRP of $30K
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE ON THIS SITE. This is an incredible resource with really amazing people.
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Heard of far worse. Minimal pain to figure it out.
We’ve all been there. Welcome to the born-again lessee club. Now you must bring your brand new toy to the first ever hackr Meetup.
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