2017 C300 Lease Question New Jersey

Hello all,

This is the first lease I have ever negotiated and I require some help looking at the first offer. I have been watching and reading the forums for months, but I hit a snag on what to do next.

MSRP $46,755

I know I need to negotiate the sell price, but what else?
The selling price is $41,662.27. Out of the $2,500 $663.22 is cap cost reduction. This month’s residual for the C300 4matic Sedan with 12,000 allowable miles is 60%, with a money factor of 0.00108 (.00098 with auto pay). The incentive we have for this month on the 2017 C300 4matic Sedan is $1,500 which is also included in the selling price for you. Mercedes-Benz acquisition fee is $795. Below I have broken down the fees which equal to your amount due at signing. I look forward to your reply.

FIRST MONTHS PAYMENT $459.00

REGISTRATION FEE $254.50 (ESTIMATE)

ACQUISITION FEE $795.00

DOC FEE $249.00

TAX ON UPFRONT ITEMS $71.78

NJ TIRE TAX $7.50

CAP COST REDUCTION $663.22

                                                           $2,500.00

Thank you in advance for your help.

https://www.mbmnj.com/vehicle-details/new-2017-mercedes-benz-c-class-c-300-morristown-nj-id-18446917

Before the incentive, dealer is giving you less than 8% off MSRP. I haven’t followed the typical discounts on a c300, but I’d assume you could get at least 10% off. Also, remove the cap cost and apply max MSDs.

Push for more of a discount. 12% should be very do-able. We were able to get 16.1% percent off with the c450

Thank you for replying. What are the max MSDs on this? I will shoot for 10-15% before incentive. He brought up incentives before I did.

MBFS allows a max of 10 MSDs.

Recent offer. Thoughts? I am going to negotiate ACQ FEE down to MB minimum. This was based upon five MSDs.

Looks like the Mileage is 10K instead of 12K and the Doc fee went from $249 to $499 an increase of $250.

TT

I reduced the mileage. I forgot to metion that. It’s a secondary ride for me. I didn’t catch the DOC FEES because I didn’t realize they were negotiable. Thank you for catching that. With negotiating the car down a bit more, ACQ FEES down to MB minimum and DOC FEES to $250.00, what are your thoughts? The price is reduced 13% by my calculations.

Don’t forget ray catena and open road and prestige are all separate companies so take those numbers and have another dealer beat then come back.

Will do! Thanks! Number-wise, am I making any rookie mistakes yet?

I literally just traded a 2014 C300 for a Lexus (Get white/gray) ES350 today because it was value without premium package 1,2,3,4 thru 19. You will literally get more than what you’re getting in the C with Japanese reliability but it is FWD. It still moves. If you’re still on the fence, really consider the new facelift 2017 ES (white/gray inside) this year. They’re not selling great because people have preconceptions about the ugly Lexus from 2015, so Lexus is bringing out incentives out the butt. MF is .0002. Lease cash 2,500. Recent grad $1000, PGA golf certificate (message me for one), $1000, upgrade cash $1000, etc.

In both cases I think there’s something off with the speakers in both the 2017 C-class and ES so make sure you really test out the speakers with some hard hitting stuff. It just doesn’t bump in either. The bass is a little off…just as an FYI. Sirius channel 46 (Heat) and 51 (BPM) might help you listen.

Anyways, that’s my spiel after getting the lexus today. But in your situation you’re getting shafted up the butt and through the mouth.

Go in steps. Ray catena is hard. I leased both my C300 and lexus ES from them. ALWAYS NEGOTIATE IN STEPS WITH THEM. Here’s my method.

Bring in a calculator and paper. Write down the lease formulas from the other page on this site. Ask salesperson for water, coffee and more paper. Go in and ask for your dream deal. 12K/36mo. 0 Down.

  1. The sale price could be lower. On edmunds forums, there are people claiming 8K under MSRP. Say you are going to purchase the vehicle after the lease ends and you want to negotiate the selling price (doesn’t make sense but it’s a tactic to make it seem more reasonable. If they call you out on it. say I want to feel good. If it feels like you’re forcing me, I don’t feel good. Get him to the lowest sell price. Don’t let him add incentives. Tell them you’re getting paid by mercedes for the incentives.

  2. At this point, if you’re hitting a wall, switch tactics. MSDs now. Cap cost reduction. What is the new payment? But do not let him up the sell price.

  3. You know I’m tired and I’ve already had coffee. I’ll be honest with you. We’re nowhere close to my dream price. He will ask what is your price. Then hit him with a number you want which might be $400. But do not let him change the sell price. He has to jack up doc fees and other fees now. Leave. Don’t lower mileage. Ask for a card and leave your number/email for when he is ready to make another offer. Go to next dealer. Repeat with prestige and celebration and you might want to try a SoCal dealer. Call/email back with new best deal.

  4. Ask them to explain the acquisition fee which should be $795 according to the website under “offer details” And the doc fees.
    https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/special_offers/current
    DO NOT NEGOTIATE FEES BEFORE YOU’RE DONE WITH EVERYTHING ELSE. NEGOTIATE just before signing. Make sure you get a paper copy of the contract…NOT ELECTRONIC…and ask them for time to carefully read the contract. At this point you have the right under NJ state law to review for 24 hours WITHOUT any changes to the deal. Don’t sign the ray catena read waiver. (Law is on page 3 of pamphlet.)
    http://www.njconsumeraffairs.gov/News/Consumer%20Briefs/guide-to-auto-leasing.pdf Say I’m killing the deal. Don’t be afraid to walk away. It’s business. They have already sunk in time and it’s your money that they want.

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IMO, this is a terrible way to negotiate and wastes everyone’s time. If you have a realistic cap cost number in mind, just email the dealer the exact deal with calculations of what you want (stock number of vehicle, cap cost, RV, buy rate MF, max MSDs, TTL, etc). This will show the dealer that you are knowledgeable and serious. If they don’t accept your offer, try other dealers. If none accept your offer, then maybe your offer isn’t fair/realistic.

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You would think so. But I have a hard time negotiating with the tough guy: I’ll give you a deal you can’t refuse dealers around here in NJ.

I have yet to find a dealer who won’t start you off at $600/mo, alter doc fees and add additional fees before signing, or use psychological pressure on you “we’re welcoming you to our family, you should sign” or “why are you using my own numbers against me” and this is my strategy now. Business is business. And my business is to get the best deal buddy. We’re not grabbing drinks after this deal.

Around here, it’s like all the stereotypes put together. So thats the strategy I put together.

Chris laid out a solid strategy for dealing with NJ/NY dealers for sure! Yes it does kill a lot of everyones time, but perhaps it is a regional thing…Every NJ dealer I approached with straight up figures pretty much laughed and told me an E300 would be $700+ a month at the start… They all came down off that figure but it was a hassle. Worth it in the long run but still a hassle!

I agree with @JON. That’s how I got a deal similar to the E-class deal that was on the front page a while ago. And yes, it was in NY/NJ/PA. I got one to accept out of eight or so that I emailed with my exact deal structure.

Can someone PM me the MB dealer they got the deal with in NJ/PA ?

thanks!