More often than not gotta be willing to travel for the deal.
My Mini Cooper S was a 0.3% deal
My BMW Wagon is a 0.4% deal
My wifes lexus that was a 15k a year mile loaded RX350 was just barely 1%
I had to fly with a one way ticket and drive back about 8-10 hours for all of them. My local market (STL) sucks for dealers willing to discount. So worth it though!
I can’t seem to get them to budge from the MSRP without them bringing in incentives, rebates etc. As if that’s the only thing that brings the price down
wow…great deals. I’d totally do that too. Are any states/big dealerships known for those great deals?
You need to be very clear. Try sending requests directly to the sales manager if you can find their email, or on the online quote generator say something like, “Hello, I’d like to have a sales manager email me with the current selling price before any rebates and incentives are applied on this (Car model here). Thanks in advance for your time.”
Mini was in Houston, Lexus in Atlanta, BMW was Baton Rouge.
Point being… not really. I just cruise cars.com, cargurus.com and autotrader looking for the biggest difference between MSRP and advertised price. More often than not the dealers had every incentive under the sun listed. However sometimes find the gems that don’t, or are actually honest about what incentives are in there. Get on the phone, get a sales person, ask if the advertised price includes incentives everyone qualifies for or selective. You should already know what the realistic numbers are just based on reading on here and edmunds.
Know the MF and residual for the trim you are wanting, know what incentives you qualify for, backtrack and figure out what % the dealer has to take off to make the deal favorable. If it’s something like 15-20% off before incentives, then it’s just not going to happen. If it’s something like 10-12%… well then, you are getting somewhere.
Once you know what your target is, just get on the phone. Much easier, quicker, saves you time, saves the salesguy time, and lets them know you are serious.
Here’s my story on the $215 BMW wagon.
The whole MO tax thing is weird. BMW Financial is only billing me for $234 a month now with the tax. So… who knows.
It is uncommon to get 1% for high end trim. Most of the leasehackr deals here are mid level or base trim. Not saying its impossible but you have to be looking at the right place at the right time. And maybe this month is not the right time.
My Santa Fe Limited Ultimate is .85% but I have to time that one and do a lot of research just to get it. I can usually lease mid level trim between 0.3%-0.8% without even trying.
On the contrary it’s sometimes the highest trims that get the best deals because there is a lot more padding for dealers to discount. Especially true on cars that have residuals set to the model, and not specific trims. Example being BMW. Was easier to get a better deal on a $53k 3-series than a $35k one. But that residual was the same no matter what.
Now things like the Jeep Cherokee, the MF on one trim is 0.00180, the MF on another is 0.00001, with similar residuals. That’s a BIG difference.
You do realize when people speak of 1%, it is referring to MSRP, not selling price, right?
Everyone’s definition of 1% is different, which is one reason it’s a silly benchmark…
I agree with that especially when you consider mileage allowances. Not everything is created equal.
This is also the reason a lot of focus is spent on luxury models. If the minimum is you need leather seating (or fake leather these days), the luxury model has it on the base unit, whereas the mainstream model has it on the 3rd or 4th highest trim, and the luxury model with that requirement ends up leasing for less.
2019 Jetta SE
I don’t know about “silly.” I think the percentage of MSRP is just as good a measurement as any, but I’ll qualify that by saying it is only useful to you when comparing your own deals to each other or even deals in your own state (sometimes own city where those taxes and fees differ). But whatever it is, as long as it is measurable and comparable. Most people here seem to be able to do the math regardless. But I think it is useful to have a “rule of thumb,” at least for yourself.
I somewhat agree to the sillyness of that 1% rule. As mentioned, there are different rebates, state tax, incentives and motivation for dealers to move cars off their lot. On top of that, dealer’s supply and demand, dealers / sales guy honesty/reputation and own personal character traits may play a big factor in getting a good deal or not.
I have walk in shitty dealership and got a very good deal (or worst deal) but didnt like the experience. Other times, i lease to a nice dealership even though i know i can get $10 / mo lower in the shitty dealership but hey, maybe i like the free popcorn. coffee, clean waiting lounge and nice sales people. Why not buy from the lowest one and service it to the good one? I want to support that dealer and nice people working in it. I think thats more important than just always finding the lowest deal. So to me, its not just getting the best leasehackr deal of 1% or lower and get bragging rights but the overall experience.
1% can be had on just about all vehicles depending on the time of year and how you structure your opening emails to the various sales reps your dealing with. Emailing a deal from here and saying do this will get you shutdown faster then anything. Allow the dealer to feel in control and brining them a competitor who is in fact beating them is a way to start the decent to true 1%. I have to say chasing deals is almost as much fun for me as driving the vehicle I get.
I think that’s a very silly comment to make. Not all vehicles can be had for 1%. Some just don’t have lease support to make it possible.
Show me when is a good time to lease any Porsche that meets the 1%.
Ahhh the forum 1%er the OP was not talking high end luxury brands but Porsche will never lease for 1% due to the volume of vehicles they produce per year and residual value of the vehicle.
it gets a bit confusing since lots of people say negotiate the price of the car first but then people say that the 1% is on the MSRP. So should I not expect to get them to come down off the MSRP and just go for 1% of that for a lease? I’m confused. I would think I would want 1% off of whatever the capitalized cost is once I got them down a little.