they started with 430, but said thats way too high and u need to go lower. So they dropped it to $350.
Money down: $0
Taking over my old lease: $1170
I think this is wayy to high.
I read in another post somewhere, that when doing this u should mention the invoice price. The 2019 models are going to come out, and no one will try to lease a 2018.
I saw this post --> 2018 Honda Accord 0 Down . Specifically, the comment of geekflyer. Who says that u should bring up the invoice price, and try to go lower than the invoice price by at least $1500.
The invoice price for this car is: $23859.
So I will try to negotiate something with that number. I am willing to pay something <$300 … and i am also willing to put down something around $500.
– Any of the “added” stuff that they mention I will completely try to remove and just get the bare bones of the contract?
Any idea how I should negotiate this? Can people easily bring up the invoice price when leasing? I think it should be reasonable since they will re-sell that car and make a lot more on it.
It is way too high, but please do not think they are taking over your old lease. They are adding $32.50/month to pay that off. So you are actually at $317.50/mo, which is better, but still too high given that these things are not selling.
And that selling price. WTF. An Accord Sport is $26,670 with destination. Where the hell are they getting $27,800? It’s marked up $1,130! You literally have no discount, just a mark up. Let me guess, “nitrogen tires,” “VIN etching” and LoJack. Say no to all that.
Also, you are trying for the wrong model. I think the Sport doesn’t lease as well as other trims. Try a Touring 1.5T, which has lots of dealer cash and steep discounts. You should be able to get it into the low $300s, ignoring your negative equity.
This is a rip off. I’m looking at getting into an Accord Sport 1.5T as well, and have been looking for the past 2 months since I’m in no hurry.
So far I’ve found one dealer in Texas that is offering the following deal:
Term: 36 months
Miles: 12k/yr
Payment: $299/mo
DAS: $0. Texas taxes are rolled into the payment, totaling $299/mo.
Money factor and residual wasn’t given, but the deal was sent to me over email and they mentioned that all fees, including taxes, are inclusive and it is a true drive out offer.
Assuming a 58% residual for 12k/yr and MF of 0.00092, that puts the car right at invoice price, which isn’t great.
By the way, they also have similar deals offering the LX for $275/mo and EX-L 1.5T for $329/mo. Obviously you can do much better but it’s always good to know what numbers you have to stay below.
The deals are getting sweeter as we get closer to 2019s hitting lots soon. I’d wait until you can hit the mid $200s, assuming you have excellent credit and you’re not in a state like Texas that charges sales tax on the full selling price of the car.
My personal goal is around $250/mo for the Sport 1.5T with $0 DAS.
Also— try shopping your current lease around at other dealers and CarMax- they might offer you more money for it so you don’t have to roll in negative equity.
How are you reaching out to car dealers through e-mail? I’d like to do that. It would be much easier than going to talk to them.
Yeah, my goal is below 300 for the Sport 1.5 for sure. I thought this was way too high. I’m actually currently in Texas, and they are charging me all those fees. I’m in ATX. Where did u get this offer at?
I and many others have paid less than your original offer for the 2.0T Sport. When I bought mine almost a year ago I had an offer for the 1.5T Sport for 23,5k. These cars are going for 10-15% off. I suggest you do way more research, because you’re not even at step 1 of a decent deal let alone worrying about monthly payment. Driveaccord.net forums has a prices paid thread, I’d start there and not come back until you have a competitive offer.
I can’t speak to monthly payments with zero basis behind them. Put the numbers into the lease calculator yourself with the correct RV MF and taxes/fees and you tell us. No incentives on Sport so it’s nice and easy. You need to email the dealer a complete offer not just random garbage numbers, that is how you get ignored.
@chrishs2000 - What do you mean by a complete offer? is there something I have missed? So far as I see it I have only said that I will only pay that much. And I asked if they can meet it.
What numbers should be crucial in these exchanges?
No offense but this is pretty 101 stuff so please do some work on your end first. The payment is a result of the variables. It is an output, not an input. Payment shopping is what dealers want you to do to obscure the numbers. $250/mo could be a horrible deal or such an unrealistic offer that no dealer will do business with you. You’re just grabbing numbers out of thin air.
As a side note, I was literally on the phone this morning with a salesman who asked me “What monthly payment were you trying to be at?” when I told him “I want to pay between 21k and 23k, that’s my budget.”
I kindly explained to him why I was trying to shop on price as opposed to monthly payment and he responded with “No matter how much I explain to people that you need to shop based on monthly payment, people still don’t understand that the interest rate is variable based on your credit score and thus, your monthly payment varies, it should be the first thing you determine what to pay…”
I respectfully disagreed with him and we left it off at that. I will not be using that dealership for any services.
No, not at all unless they were desperate to make a deal. I’d say you’d be lucky to get it at $280 with zero down. Hondas don’t lease well. I’m looking at a 2019 Camry SE and I’d be lucky to get a lease on it for $275, zero down. But Toyotas lease much better.
I’ve encountered a lot of BS like that. IMO very few salespeople even understand how leasing works. They just type numbers into the magic form and poof.
Is it the sales manager that comes up with numbers to give to the sales rep when you’re waiting in their offices, or do the sales rep tell the manager how much they think they could take you for?
Yes “Honda’s don’t lease well” but the rampant generalizations on this forum are getting out of hand. A more accurate way to say it is that “Honda does not subsidize leasing”. They don’t do lease specific rebates and rarely do they have aggressive MF or RV. In fact RV is usually so conservative that people make money trading in Honda leases. But you can still get killer deals when the stars align with big MSRP discounts and incentives.
$7500 or whatever one pay for a 12/36 on a $40k Clarity and $250/mo on a $34k 1.5T Touring Accord are both killer deals. Same with recent Pilot deals. Again, it comes down to the inputs. They will never give away cars like Infiniti and GM but there are deals to be had if you look on the right places at the right time.
Yeah my final lease payment on my 2016 Camry is December 2. I’m thinking of hitting up the dealers the week before xmas. Is that the best time or should I go after xmas?
I would shop both November and December. Lease deals change monthly based on availability and incentives offered. What one dealer is willing to offer last week of December, another may not.
There’s really no one answer to this because there are so many factors as to why people get the prices they do. Best advice: Between November and December, shop at multiple dealers and compare price quotes, go with the best one.
The first and most important step is to determine how much you’re willing to spend. Once you get a price to where you are comfortable with, you should take it. Your affordability is what matters most. Be reasonable in your goals, just as you shouldn’t “over-buy” a car, you also should understand how much cars go for and what the market can sustain. That’s where the research on the edmunds forums, here, Accord forums come in.
