would you recommend going through honcker or is it better to go directly to dealership
Honcker was literally zero hassle, minus the whole deal with my old car. If you know the price you are going for or know what a good price is, I highly recommend it. When I got the Kia last year, I acutally used Honcker as a bargaining chip against the dealership. Also…if honcker is a few bucks higher than a dealership…and you value your time, it’s worth not having to play all the games. I was shocked how great their support was…answered all the questions quickly and even spoke on the phone a few times.
They said most deals go thru in about 24 hours. Mine was a little bit longer because the dealerships, at least in this are, are closed on sundays. Started saturday late afternoon, by monday after work the delivery was scheduled.
My wife was super happy and glad not having to deal with anyone. So that makes it all worth it.
If you can catch a deal on it…go for it.
Probably just the dealer. I did a Cherokee Limited at the end of last year for 299 w/780 das 39/15k miles. 38k msrp.
Hope you enjoy the new car, I think the verdict is still out on that app though. I’ve heard of a lot of bait and switch – dealers posting cars they don’t have. However, glad it worked out for you!! post photos in the trophy garage, I think they are missing a new cherokee over there!
If they do a hard credit pull followed by a bait and switch. They may be legally liable – not entirely sure though
I don’t think its the app’s fault based on their business model. They charge dealers a subscription fee every month, then dealers can really post any prices they want to on the app based on various msrps. So what many dealers are doing is picking the lowest msrp possible, giving an awesome payment, then when you go for the vehicle they try to upsell and switch you into another car. Granted, this doesn’t apply throughout the whole app with all makes/models. However, I’ve had several customers have come to me having that issue.
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At what point do they initiate a hard credit pull – before or after a possible switch and bait
Yeah i’ve read a bunch of mixed reviews on the app, so i was prepared for some shady business. I think like you kind of mentioned it really boils down to the dealership themselves if you get one of the good ones or not. I think I lucked out.
$299 would of been awesome. That was essentially the same msrp as the one i have now. But I know it’s a different year now, different month, different competitions. In my head, as long as I was under or at the 1% rule then I was going to be happy knowing i’m not getting too screwed.
Mine was $37,900…So 371 with 520 down with 15/36 works.
My local place gave me an initial offer of 393 with 12k miles and less options off the start. So I knew the ball park pricing i was in. Even if they matched it or beat it, I would of avoided them at all costs. I’ve just heard too many horror stories from them.
They do a soft credit pull when you sign up with the app with your info. I got an alert once they ran the credit check after I hit submitted a bunch of stuff. So i’m guessing that’s when they do a hard pull.
Why do people use Honcker when they can get all the information here for a great deal for free? Lol
I have noticed that their prices fluctuate a lot during the day. For example one of the cars I have in my favorites have been between $364 and $390 today.
Because it’s cheaper sometimes and takes less time.
I noticed that if you put a car in your showroom it gets discounted for a few days eventually. Not sure how it’s determined
Me nither. I just noticed that price jumps during the day without any special discounts.
Called Honcker to ask them how the process works if no cars show up for my actual zip and I put in a zip in a close market that has a good selection. Customer service was not very helpful, they couldn’t answer basic questions. I’d be wary of leasing through them, not sure how helpful they’d be if there were issues with the leasing process.
I tried signing up to check out their prices, but they ask for your SS# right away.
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FYI - looks like Honcker is now available in MA, seems to be only Toyota deals at the moment, deals seem fair but not leasehackr worthy for now
You can use them as a starting point, what you shouldn’t be paying more than. Like everything else in life, work is required if you want to save/make $$, otherwise you pay for convenience, which is fine too. Time vs. $$ value.
what kind of documentation did Honcker request from each of you? I might be going that route, but with a cosigner instead. just wondering. thanks in advance.
I’m going to shut this one down. This bumped thread hasn’t been active since June last year.
@MorganFromHoncker, you should probably open a new post and let people Q/A you there, vs bumping this old thread.