Ghibli S Deal- Please Review

Hoping to get some input on this deal.

MSRP 87545
SP: 76228 (includes 1400 of rolled payments)
RV 57%
MF .0001
Down including drives: 3K
Payment inc tax: 794

When I use the calculator it gives me the roughly the same payment using only 1600 roughly in drives. I’m not sure how he’s getting to it with 3000 down.

Looking for some quality feedback

The only advice I can offer is to not put anything down for cap cost reduction.

From the leasing guide on the main page:

  1. Never Put A Down Payment On A Lease
    There are two good reasons for this:

If your car is ever totaled or stolen, you can always walk away from a lease without penalty (thanks to GAP insurance). However, you won’t always get your down payment back—so don’t pay one to begin with.

A down payment obscures the cost of the lease and makes it more difficult to compare deals. Any car can be leased for $199 per month if there’s a sufficient down payment.
Instead, we recommend placing a security deposit, which lowers the money factor and could save you thousands in finance charges. Brands that offer a multiple security deposit program include Audi, BMW, Infiniti, Lexus, Mercedes-Benz, and Toyota.

1 Like

Good feedback.

Thoughts on these terms other than the down?

Here are a few recent Ghibli leases:

Take a look at those and see what you think. I don’t have a lot of information on Ghiblis other than a lot of people usually get more than 13% off, so I think you have room for negotiation there. The MF is great and the residual is, of course, not negotiable.

Hopefully some of the Ghibli experts will jump in here.

Very helpful.

Any other experienced hackers would be appreciated!

What are all the fees broken out? I only see DMV on that sheet. Dealer obviously has $1815 in fees if $1185 of your $3k is CCR. What about first month? Is that part of the $1815?

Sheet also shows 76815 as sales price, which is 600 more than you stated. And what is “tx accessory” that adds yet another 600?

TX asscecory is some nonsense interior guard they do on all their cars according to the dealer. He said that is already added on all calls.

The 3000 is roughly 1600 in drives and he said the rest is cap reduction to get the payment under 800.

Of course they said that. Doesn’t mean you have to pay for it.

Like I said, the paperwork shows $1185 cap reduction, so he isn’t being truthful about “$1600 in fees,” and you should certainly want to know what those fees are because that is A LOT! And then there is the selling proce discrepancy I mentioned. You aren’t getting a full and clear picture from this dealer.

And no way in hell should you pay $600 for them to spray a can of scotchguard on the seats. Honestly, as soon as someone mentions “we can’t take that off because we already added it to the car,” I walk.

I agree that you shouldn’t put any cash down (i.e., cap reduction) for the above reasons stated. Furthermore, your money factor is 0.00010 which equates to an interest rate of about 0.24%. That’s very cheap money. Surely, you can put your $1,185 to much better use than sinking it into a depreciating asset.
I’d like to see a breakdown of the $3,000 drive off fees. I’m guessing it includes the $1,185 cap reduction, acquisition fee, stated gov. fees, dealer doc. fee, 1st month’s payment.
Not sure if you can do better on the selling price. What “rolled in” payments are you talking about? Are they payments from a previous lease? If so, is there a pull ahead program for which you are eligible? The 598 Tx Accessory sounds like BS.