Any insight on this offer? I thought it should be more like $450 pre-tax before any MSD’s, but I could be mistaken.
36 month / 10k miles
MSRP: $46,725
Discount: $4,193.24
Sale Price: $42,531.76
Down Payment: $2,000 (comes out of trade-in)
Money Factor: .00174
MSD’s: None proposed yet in this scenario, though I would consider 4
Residual: $28,969.50
Fee’s: $1,363 (acquisition, doc, and license)
Proposal: $473 / month base ($510 after Cal tax)
He came back with $500 with tax as best month-end offer.
Hello There:
This is a generic copy + paste answer to your question about how I can get a better deal.
#SELL PRICE SELL PRICE SELL PRICE.
Remember that dealers make money based on the following. (Sell price + Incentives + Holdback (look it up for each car sold the dealer gets around 2% MSRP. This varies by brand) + Volume Discount (secret ask someone on the inside)) - (INVOICE). Check out the wiki for sites on what other people have paid including NADAguides. Which sites do you use to do research? (Updated 08/10/17 Alt Lease Calc) [Library]
#INCENTIVES
These are programs made by corporate to give to dealers so they have more room to discount cars. Autobytel has lists for each make and model. However, make sure you are eligible before barging into the dealer demanding the moon. DO not let the dealer factor this into the sell price discount. They get reimbursed for incentives.
#MONEY FACTOR
This is the bank’s profit, or in other words, interest. Go to edmunds (again info on wiki) to find the BASE MF for your vehicle. Dealers will sometimes mark up the interest and pocket the difference. This is where Edmunds comes in. Don’t get got.
#Fees
Look up the lease acquisition fee for your brand and other user’s average standard doc fees. For example NJ is usually ~$499 and Florida can get up to ~$1000. Remember doc fees are sometimes the finance manager’s cut so they can be negotiable. However, lease acquisition costs are usually not, but why not ask?
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